Tria

Address:
5959 Centerville Rd., North Oaks, 651-426-9222, triarestaurant.com

The Scene
Tria sits imperiously at the end of Centerville Road in a large building that still seems perched on the edge of the prairie. But last year’s curiosity seekers have been replaced by steady customers. Gone is the gawky coltish feeling of the early days. Tria’s preppy guests seem very happy, enjoying drinks in the wood-paneled bar or strolling through the country-chic dining room. The staff moves in an effortless way, the oversized fireplaces roar, and the landscaped patio ringed with evergreens is one of the nicest spots to dine alfresco. Tria is a beautiful restaurant, having spared no expense in creating a farmhouse feeling with an upscale sensibility. It’s Pierre Deux not Peter Rabbit.

Our Take
Tria is a completely different restaurant than when I last visited, thanks to the arrival of former Goodfellow’s pastry queen and Tejas chef Joan Ida. On three recent visits, I encountered plate after plate of perfectly cooked, wonderfully seasoned food. Where there used to be overcooked and oversalted baked mussels there are now perfectly plumped and seasoned French ale–steamed mussels. Salads that had been thrown onto a plate are now constructed with thought and scream with a fresh brightness. A quintet of sea scallops are crisped on one side, served on a mash of potatoes, and drizzled with a tart wine sauce—easy and simple, but the toughest of foods to pull off. Poutine Martin—an indulgent truffle-gravy-soaked tangle of French fries, cheese curds, and sautéed foie gras—has been transformed under the direction of Ida. She knows how to create menus and train staff, how to care for cheese, bake bread, glaze beets, and keep macaroni and cheese creamy. Her pastry talent is immense, and—from a butter pound cake with tropical fruit and coconut ice cream to insanely gooey pudding cake baked in maple syrup—her desserts are divine. With its million-dollar kitchen and a front of the house wanting for nothing, Tria was built to be the classiest of restaurants. With Joan Ida on board, everything finally clicks.

Market Watch
Plans for Tria always included a small market on the premises, but getting one off the ground while birthing a restaurant has been a tall order. The Market at Tria is almost ready to go. Not only will Ida’s full restaurant menu be available to go, ready for a short stint on a stovetop, but all components will be for sale as well. As Ida explains, “If a customer wants a teaspoon of sea salt, they can get it.” Fresh vegetables, pastries, breads, and relishes will be on the shelves.