Moti Mahal

Address:
3025 Franklin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-343-2222, motimahal.net

The Scene
Like so many of the shoestring-budget Indian-restaurant genre, Moti Mahal is a veritable hole in the wall that’s claimed the shell of a defunct café and given it a bit of ethnic character by hanging some subcontinent artwork and adding glass-over-linen-topped tables, rustic chairs, and worn carpet. On most evenings, the sparse, very

Augsburg and Seward neighborhoodies has its pick of the tables, booths, and line of settees that run the length of a glass atrium. A wonderful perfume of curry spices permeates the room, and the small crowd helps keep the noise level to almost a whisper. Take-out is, of course, an option.

Our Take
With a menu that includes more than 100 choices and a wait staff that isn’t notably helpful in guiding diners through the daunting maze of dhansaks, jalfrezi, and pasandas, selecting what to sample is a hit-and-miss proposition. The very minor dent I made in the menu included a top-notch rendition of the traditional lamb, onion, and tomato dish known as rogan josh; a deliciously rendered order of chicken sagwala—usually called saag and made of meat simmered in a robust combination of spinach, tomatoes, and coriander; and do-piazza, a mix of lamb, tomatoes, and caramelized onions. Equally exemplary were orders of pieces of tandoor-puffed naan and the slightly denser, butter-slathered whole-wheat flat bread called lacha paratha.

In contrast, I wasn’t particularly keen about a boring lamb-and-potato vindaloo, a forgettable shrimp curry, and the chicken chat, a cold appetizer that might best be described as a soupy Asian salsa of shredded boneless chicken, tomatoes, and green peppers. Many dishes came to the table less than hot, a resounding problem here. Of the six desserts listed, only two were available—a pleasant bowl of rice pudding and the gulab jaman, the love-’em-or-leave-’em balls of milk and honey served in sugar syrup. Service was variable.

7 Habits of a Highly Effective Indian Restaurant
There’s a sameness to local Indian dining rooms, from their broad menus to budget pricing and perfunctory service. If I had my way, every Indian restaurant in town would kick it up a notch with the following:

    • Fresh plates and silverware as courses progress.
    • A wait staff that smiles and talks knowledgeably about the food.
    • Food that leaves the kitchen at proper temperature.
    • A service style that doesn’t rush the diner.
    • Entrées with more than a half-dozen cubes of meat in them. (I’ll happily pay more!)
    • Adequate portions of condiments and relishes.
    • Wine and beer readily available.