The Craftsman

Address:
4300 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-722-0175,crafstmanrestaurant.com

The Scene
Craftsman style is often called the comfort food of American residential architecture. The easygoing design aesthetic is carried out in impressive fashion at this new bistro in the old Molly Quinn’s space in the Longfellow neighborhood of Minneapolis—which is packed, not surprisingly, with typical Craftsman bungalows. Everyone looks good in the cozy, amber storefront—hipsters sipping zinfandel late into the night at the wooden bar; families dining early, nibbling pizzas in banquettes; young couples holding hands—and everyone is smiling.

Our Take
Neighborhoods need a warm and inviting place—The Craftsman fits the bill. Chef-partner Dennis Marron takes great care, but this is not a restaurant trying to educate its customers with bizarre ingredients or funky combinations. Rather, the kitchen seeks to understand its clientele, and it’s working. The local crowds are growing, defying early oddsmakers who wondered if grilled pear pizzas, double-digit appetizers, and a $9 burger would make it in what was once a blue-collar part of town.

The chef has a deft touch with all things seafood, both cooked and raw. The bar menu features delightful pizzas, particularly a mushroom, fig, and goat-cheese version. Side dishes (this year’s hot menu category) are a must, especially the Sichuan green beans. Desserts need attention. The buzzwords are all there—bread pudding, crisps, pots au crème—but their execution is no match for the rest of the kitchen’s offerings.

Service is stellar, though servers go to hilarious lengths to describe the provenance of each ingredient—put it on the menu, maybe? The wine list is exclusively domestic, well chosen, and loaded with great matches for Marron’s New American cuisine tinged with Asian touches.

Neighborhood Discount?
In recent years, as downtown rents soared and a profusion of talent spilled out of downtown kitchens, chef-driven neighborhood restaurants like The Craftsman became the flavor of the moment. From Craftsman to Corner Table, al Vento to Ravello, great food has finally come within strolling distance for many of us. That’s good. But neighborhood food lovers are gasping at what seem to be downtown prices. Creative food made from local ingredients costs more and calls for chefs with greater skills. The days of Lucia’s $13 roasted natural chicken dinner are over, friends—particularly if you want to have your fingerling potato cake and eat it too.

Fine Print GETTING THERE, GETTING IN: Reservations suggested. Small lot; street parking is a breeze, with plenty available. HOURS: Su–Th 5–10 p.m., F–Sa 5–11 p.m. Bar menu, Su–Th 5–11 p.m., F–Sa 5 p.m.–midnight. NOISE LEVEL: Light to moderate. KIDS:  No children’s menu, but upmarket pizza from the bar menu and burgers are available. The kitchen is eager to accommodate kids’ tastes.  CARDS: AmEx, Discover, MC, Visa. WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Fully. SMOKING: Not permitted. ENTREE PRICES: $16.50–$19.50. EXTRAS: A landscaped outdoor urban patio replete with hand-carved pergolas opens in late spring. Sunday brunch begins sooner.