Corner Table

Address:
4257 Nicollet Ave. S., Mpls., 612-823-0011, cornertablerestaurant.com

The Scene
This low-key Kingfield indie is populated with locals and visitors from the nearby Lake Harriet neighborhood. The casually dressed crowd tends to be a repeating mix of start-up families, many with kids in tow, and empty-nesters. The place is outfitted simply with roughly a dozen sturdy wooden tables, a small sit-down wine-and-beer bar, a mirrored wall, a smattering of paintings, and not much else. Corner Table is very much designed with budget-conscious diners in mind, particularly those in Zip Code proximity who prefer a dinner or weekend brunch at a familiar, close-by gathering place--where no one cares that you've come as you are.

Our Take
Chef/owner Scott Pampuch is living his dream, and it shows. He jumped at the opportunity this past spring to take over the modestly proportioned n.e. thyme, where he had previously presided in the kitchen. Pampuch is a largely self-trained talent who became a local legend when, during his stint at the Modern Cafe, no less an authority than Bon Appetit swooned over the pot roast. At Corner Table, he's respectful of the pocketbooks of his neighbors, on whose support he depends. At one end of the menu, for relatively bargain prices ($5 to $12), diners can sample monthly changing entrées such as succulent, honey-barbecued smoked chicken breast and superlative slow-braised organic Minnesota beef brisket with a whole-grain-mustard-and-tarragon sauce. At the other end of the spectrum, there's a four-course tasting menu that's a veritable steal at $45 ($65 with a wine flight). Just tell your server your tastes and wait for the surprises. Out treats included a peppery, nicely chewy wheat berry-and-asparagus risotto; tender day-boat scallops bathed in a light citrus sauce; and about as fine a version of seared lamb en persillade as you'll ever sink your teeth into. Combine all this with an upbeat and attentive (sometimes too attentive) staff and a noticeable serviceable wine list, and the result is a charming spot any neighborhood would covet.

High Values
Pampuch is on a mission to wring the exorbitant prices out of restaurant dining. He's working hard to persuade local buying co-ops and similarly inclined chefs to join him in the cause. One solution: take better advantage of regional family-farm-raised beef, lamb, poultry, and game by buying whole product and sharing purchases among several restaurants or by better utilizing the assorted cuts. The latter also keeps a chef sharp by requiring more than simply broiling or pan-frying meats. As Pampuch sees it, cranking out grilled rib eye night after night isn't really cooking. In addition, he's trying to warn diners away from the wasteful portion sizes that seem to have become the expected norm at Twin Cities restaurants. Bravo!

Fine Print GETTING THERE, GETTING IN: Street Parking. Reservations for six or more only, on weekends. HOURS: Tu-Th 5-10 p.m., F 5-11 p.m., Sa 8 a.m.-2 p.m. & 5-11 p.m., Su 8 a.m.-2 p.m. NOISE LEVEL: M oderate KIDS: No special menu, but kids are happily accommodated. CARDS: MC, VISA. WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE:  Fully. SMOKING: Not permitted. ENTREE PRICES: $5 - $25 EXTRAS: A popular extensive weekend brunch. Periodic wine tastings.