Spoonriver

Address:
750 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-436-2236, spoonriverrestaurant.com

The Scene
Spoonriver is shoehorned into a long, narrow space that creates a tight challenge for servers, but helps to elevate the animation level. Floor-to-ceiling windows run along two sides of the concrete-columned interior and are abutted by a row of sleek, smallish wood-topped tables. Across the aisle, there’s a second row of seating backed on one side by a long banquette. Just inside the entranceway, a small bar beckons. The preferred seating is on the cobblestone plaza that affords a wonderful view of the new Guthrie Theater, Stone Arch Bridge, and the Metrodome. Spoonriver’s clientele includes couples and groups dining before a show and an after-the-rush crowd content to hang out and linger over their meals.

Our Take
Spoonriver is the second restaurant currently owned by local chef and cookbook author Brenda Langton, whose vegetarian-oriented Cafe Brenda has been a Warehouse District landmark for more than twenty years. Some items on Spoonriver’s short menu such as the interesting wild-mushroom–pistachio terrine and chickpea sticky-rice croquettes set in circles of flavorful harissa and yogurt mint sauces are renditions of established favorites. Others such as the spicy Sloppy Jane—a tasty mock-duck version of the familiar sandwich—and the tagliatelli sauced with a shredded lamb and vegetable ragout—the only red meat choice—represent different experiments. For the most part, presentations are appealing with plenty of flavor in evidence. One of the great taste combinations was a special appetizer of grilled watermelon with pistachios and basil dressing. Adding to the pleasure are some of the best dessert trays to be found in these parts. A couple of standouts included a mango-stuffed, cinnamon-accented phyllo turnover surrounded by fresh fruits and a subtle green tea panna cotta. Although service is professional and attentive, one waitress (and Brenda herself) totally dropped the ball on one of our visits by not offering to make up for another waiter having given away a reserved order of the last of a nightly special and the ensuing hour-plus wait for replacements.

To Market to Market
This little section of the revitalized riverfront is a beachhead for sustainable agriculture. Both Langton and executive chef Lenny Russo across the way at the Guthrie have long been leading supporters of what’s come to be known as the “slow food” movement . In addition to the seasonal and locally grown ingredients showcased on their menus, on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. (through October 21) the nearby promenade hosts the Mill City Farmers’ Market, Langton’s wonderful brainchild featuring everything from artisanal foods to cooking demonstrations.