Chambers Kitchen

Address:
901 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-767-6999, chambersminneapolis.com

The Scene
Mind your step when making the descent down the jet black, faintly illuminated stairs that lead to the dimly lit restaurant in the basement. This slightly treacherous passage comes about as close to a grand entrance as there is in the Twin Cities, and the last thing you want to do is stumble before the most fashionable crowd to be found in these parts. Once safely downstairs, you will be escorted to one of the spacious see-and-be-seen tables and settees or the several secluded nooks that tend to be occupied by hand-holding couples or reclusive celebrities flocking to the new Chambers Hotel. Although the stylish décor includes a few flourishes, it’s more elemental than dazzling, and the effect is warm, comfortable, and intimate.

My Take
The news last year that world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten had chosen to associate his name with a Minneapolis-based restaurant was earthshaking. After all, this is the very same locale that didn’t support the superb (but out-of-town-chef–driven) Aquavit. Indeed, there are a lot of similarities between Aquavit and Chambers Kitchen: highly creative preparations, handsome tableware, artistic platings, and instant crowds. For the price, the fare at Chambers Kitchen strikes me as a better value, but portion sizes are modest by local standards.

Personally, I love the place. Asian fusion is my kind of food, and there is an abundance of great dishes I soon will rush back to have again. Standouts included an exquisite snapper sashimi edged with fried garlic, chili, and sesame; a tower of smoked-bacon–wrapped shrimp paired with passion fruit mustard and cumin honey; a knockout rice-cracker–crusted seared tuna starter; and an unconventional star anise–tinged duck a l’orange complemented by Asian pear slivers and orange-infused ginger crystals. And in sensible deference to Midwest tastes, there are both a first-rate black pepper–crusted sirloin steak with fries and walleye, seasoned with salt and pepper, lightly battered, and served with black sesame seeds, morsels of fried garlic, and slices of jalapeño pepper. Servicewise, even after a month of operation, pacing remained erratic, but I expect it’s only a matter of time before the unevenness is smoothed out.

Why Minneapolis?
Was there a reason that über chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten chose Minneapolis over a host of other restaurant-friendlier cities? Reportedly, it was because of the persistence of Chambers’ owner Ralph Burnet, though the deal sealer proved to be visits to some of the area’s Asian markets by Vongerichten. Fresh ingredients are key to his cooking, and he was astounded by the quality of produce available. It gave him the confidence to ink a deal.