February 2007
By Andrew Zimmern
Spoon-tender grilled octopus is served over sautéed frisée seasoned with garlic, chilies, and lemon. Flawless.
Photo by James Erickson
Clams, pasta, wine, herbs, and olive oil, softened with a whisper of butter—the best version of this dish I have tasted locally in some time.
An eater’s dish: sautéed calf’s liver with caramelized onions, Chianti vinegar, and large cubes of seared pancetta.