Gusto

Address
922 Mainstreet, Hopkins, 952-945-9463

The Scene
Gusto Cafe & Wine Bar’s comfortable, contemporary interior comprises a collection of well-spaced, black Formica-clad tables, a few high-tops, and a six-seat wine bar. The décor is minimalist: a handsome wrought iron chandelier originally from Minneapolis’s Grand Hotel, a smattering of for-sale paintings, an electric faux fireplace, mustard walls, and floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a panorama of Mainstreet, USA. The clientele ranges from nattily dressed residents of the nearby condominiums to jeans-and-sweatshirt-clad couples out for a quick bite.

Our Take
This charming, unpretentious spot definitely deserves higher visibility on the western suburbs’ radar. Indeed, there’s almost nothing to dislike about the place. Although there were only seven entrées, they covered the bases and everything was well-seasoned and deftly prepared. Standouts included a tasty rosemary-and-black-pepper–coated steak au poivre and a pan-seared chicken breast that was as tender and succulent as any I’ve had. But what’s most likely to lure me back is the list of a dozen starters and small plates that were perfect for pairing with the restaurant’s conservative (mainstream) list of twenty-six wines by the glass. I was wowed by a tomato-basil bruschetta that, even in the depth of winter, boasted firm and flavorful cellar-ripened chunks of tomato. The supporting crostini mercifully did not taste like warmed-over cardboard either. Other favorites among the tapas were a plate of fontina- and ham-stuffed beggar’s purses (more ham!); a redolent special of escargot and shitake mushrooms bedded inside buttery, flaky puff pastry; and a surprising crowd pleaser of dates wrapped in crisp bacon. In addition, a handful of scrumptious desserts that could be matched with glasses of port, Madeira, or cognac included a wonderful ginger crème brûlée and a wicked “divine lava” chocolate cake. Rounding all this out was a serving crew that was attentive, upbeat, and tuned into pacing. I went home wondering why I hadn’t heard more buzz about Gusto, and you will too.

So Who  Is in the Kitchen?
The face that periodically peeked out from the stoves to check on the activity looked familiar, but until the chef/owner came over and introduced himself, I couldn’t place him. He proved to be Chuck Venables, a fixture in these parts who has served stints in both the front and back of the house at venues such as Manny’s, Cosmos, Blue Point, California Cafe, and The Orion Room. His experience is clearly evident.