Café BonXai

Address
1613 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-644-1444

The Scene
On the outside, a banner hastily draped over the former Best Steak House sign signals the recycled nature of this Midway café, open since November. The black-and-orange interior tinged with a purple haze from suspended light fixtures makes for a startling first impression. However, the most unexpected discovery about this spot, located next to an adult fantasy boutique and just down the block from the notorious Ax-Man, is the melting-pot crowd of locals that absolutely packs it just about every evening. Faculty and staff from nearby Hamline University, banqueting groups from the Hmong community, and across-the-freeway visitors from Mac-Groveland are all present and accounted for, and their lively  and contented buzz produces a palpable feel-good ambiance.

Our Take
BonXai has become an overnight sensation by focusing on the basics. The menu of half a dozen appetizers and a dozen entrées offers an appealing, eclectic mix of generously portioned Thai, Italian, and French recipes, plus a carryover list of grilled steaks. Whether it’s crisp and tasty fried calamari, rich fettuccine Alfredo, or thin-cut char-grilled marinated pork chops, there’s something for everyone. Chef Christian Hang, who presides in the bustling open kitchen, is not reluctant to spice things up. His coconut green curry with succulent jumbo shrimp bursts with flavors—and a lot of local restaurateurs could learn a thing or two by viewing his appealing platings. It’s amazing that he manages to do all this at prices that are an unequivocal bargain. That’s not to say that everything here works—spongy, protein-deficient spring rolls and sauces that tend to be runny are a couple of critical examples—but in general the enjoyment factor is quite high.

The wait staff is as energetic a bunch as you’ll find anywhere. Pacing is a bit too speedy and we must have been asked five times by different people if we were enjoying our meal—nonetheless, the beaming smiles and the spring in their steps were appreciated. BonXai has appplied for a license to serve wine and beer, and their addition will likely require some adjustment in the service cycle.

An Open Challenge
University Avenue is now home to some of the Twin Cities’ best ethnic restaurants. Krua Thai, Little Szechuan, Que Nah, and Cambodia Cheng Heng are all at the top of their categories. So the question is, why has St. Paul failed to give this burgeoning stretch of ethnic eateries a catchy moniker and marketing push as was done for Eat Street on Nicollet in Minneapolis? My own humble suggestion would be “UniversiTreat Avenue.” Remember, you read it here first!