Fogo de Chão

Address
City Center, 645 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-338-1344, fogodechao.com

The Scene
The former Copeland’s in City Center has been transformed from an ersatz Gulf Coast–inspired mall eatery into an airy outpost of one of the most successful new restaurant concepts in the country. There is nothing thematically Brazilian about Fogo de Chão, except the gauchos, inspired by the cowboys who once roamed the Rio Grande do Sul. Garbed in pantalones, jaunty red kerchiefs, wide leather belts, and boots, they perambulate around the largely open-plan dining room. The crowd is diverse and savvy at lunch, more suburban and wide-eyed on weekend evenings.

Our Take
South American churrascarias are a wondrous resource for lovers of open-pit fire-roasted grub. In a restaurant world where most eateries don’t know how to execute a concept that differentiates them from the hordes of competitors, Fogo de Chão does. First, stuff yourself silly on “gougovers,” my dining companion’s witty sniglet for the small cheese puffs that are half gougere and half popover. Then it’s on to the salad smorgasbord that is the best in town and can supply an endless variety of side dishes for the meat selections. Flip your coaster to green (red means stop) and the strolling knife-wielding gauchos holding long swords heavy with roast meat (there are about fifteen offerings) ply you with all the Brazilian beef you can handle. Try the trio of sirloin offerings—picanha, a salt- and garlic-rubbed center cut, beefy and livery at the same time; the melting alcatra sirloin, cut from the top of the muscle; or the fraldinha, a bottom sirloin with the texture of flank steak. The beef ribs, rib eye, leg of lamb, lamb chops, pork ribs and loin, and chicken legs and breasts were insanely good, and don’t miss the linguica, spicy and crackling little pork sausages. Desserts were fair, with a lively key lime pie, but after eight pounds of food, they were an afterthought. Service is skillfully efficient—you can eat quickly if you care to, making Fogo a great choice pretheater or before a game.

Familiar Stranger
From cruise-ship-buffet aficionados to country-club Sunday–brunch fans, familiar choices and bulk-feeding trumps style and sophistication for most Twin Cities diners. Fogo offers the familiar (large portions of grilled meat) with the unusual or singular elements necessary for success in this clime. From unique meat cuts that are ideal for roast-and-slice service to the fried ripe bananas that come with your meal, there are so many atypical offerings wrapped inside a warm, cozy blanket of recognizable fare that it’s no wonder this restaurant chain is so successful. Maybe Fogo de Chão could come up with a concept for the old Goodfellow’s space?