Cafe Ena

 Address 
4601 Grand Ave. S., Mpls., 612-824-4441

The Scene
Cafe Ena casts a warm glow on this city corner, where front yards overlap and kids ride bikes down the sidewalks. It’s an old grocer-turned- neighborhood bistro (with spice) that is cozy if cramped, urbane, and friendly. The foyer, with comfy seating and beverage service, eases the wait for a table or a spot at the bar facing the open kitchen. Muted earth tones, dark beams, and terra cotta tiles dominate, while closely spaced leather-topped tables soften the hubbub, laughter, and clatter. People wave to each other across the room, table hop as though at a party, and ask each other what’s good on the menu. Casual yet sexy, understated and current, there are few dresses and a lot of dressy jeans. Photos of Ena, owners Hector Ruiz and Erin Ungerman’s pretty daughter, line the walls.

Our Take
A cousin to nearby El Meson, Ena ventures further into Spanish colonial terrain. Don’t let the term Latin fusion confuse you—there’s some very good authentic food here. Dishes grounded in traditional technique and the classic flavors of Mexico, Argentina, and Chile are the best bets on the long, ambitious menu. Servers are enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and forthright, so follow their lead. Appetizers such as blue corn arepas (pancakes) topped with spicy shredded chicken or cream-laced chilies or the queso fundido (bubbly fried cheese) napped in tangy tomatillo-avocado sauce sing with smoke, heat, and lime. The braised lamb shank in deep-red adobo, the grilled Argentinean flank steak with a puckery, hot chimmichurri, and a fillet of firm, moist corvina—steamed in a banana leaf with tomato, onion, and spices—make the most sense. The place suffers from trying too hard and doing too much. Why are there three different steak and two lamb dishes, several types of fish, and various specials; isn’t a great rendition of each enough? (And do we need another version of calamari?) That said, the chef’s Nuevo Latino flavors shine in surprisingly subtle plates—an appetizer of smoked salmon cakes with mango salsa; spinach salad with panela cheese and mangos in citrus vinaigrette; and a focused and clean chipotle-dusted salmon fillet. Finish with traditional flan or the Carlota, a mascarpone-layered, strawberry-doused sponge cake. Better yet, try a tawny port and drink in the sunny rhythm of this laid-back place on a cold winter’s night.

Sit and Sip
Cafe Ena sports a friendly wine list with great prices. Most bottles are $20 to $30, or get a glass for as low as $5. Selections are predominately from Argentina, Chile, Spain, and Mexico (Baja) and feature small, family vineyards with eclectic and accessible styles. A light Portuguese white makes a great aperitif while a complex, elegant Chilean shiraz is round and hefty. The house sangria is fruity, but not overly sweet. Seeking something less spirited? Sample a range of exotic elixirs—homemade tamarind, horchata (brewed from nuts, spiced with cinnamon), or freshly squeezed lemonade.