Nick and Eddie

Address
1612 Harmon Pl., Mpls., 612-486-5800

The Scene
Nick and Eddie, the new kid on this gracious Loring Park block, is a sleek joint with a view of the picturesque pond. On any given night, it’s a post gallery-opening party, a place for business execs, romantic couples, chic divorcees, and young professionals at the handsome L-shaped bar. It’s a spare Euro–chic place with white walls, high ceilings, and an ancient terrazzo floor, softened by flocked wall coverings by the British haute design house Osborne and Little and yards of black speakers—a state of the art sound system. The cozy booths, four-tops, and bustling front bar give it a must-see-and-be-seen intimacy. Named for the original establishment in New York, Nick and Eddie conjures up the much-missed Loring Bar and Cafe, though it’s more polished, understated, and, shall we say, grown-up?

Our Take
The menu, like the space, is spare and straightforward, with thoughtful bistro-inspired dishes. Starters such as potato pancakes with smoked whitefish salad seem both original and classic. Pretty salads such as the endive, watercress, and persimmon balance the heftier fare. Mains such as beef cheeks, a lesser known cut, braised and fork-tender on parsnip purée, speak classic Parisian charcuterie. Cider-poached salmon served with sauerkraut, Brussels sprouts, and tiny spaetzle sizzled in browned butter is chef Steven Vranian’s divine inspiration. “It’s an ancient brasserie dish most often made with ham or bacon,” he says. Grilled duck on wild rice hominy, roast chicken breast, pork dishes, and steak are well executed and seasonal. The wine list, with wines by the glass, is eclectic and interesting with an eye to economy, complementing the menu and not overwhelming it. Vinho verde, that crisp, immensely potable Portuguese wine meant for washing down humble dishes, suits all the upbeat starters. The array of reds, some plummy, others dry, pair with the red meat entrées.

The short list of desserts is pleasant enough—luscious golden butterscotch pudding, whimsical Ho-Ho’s (springy chocolate roulade with plenty of cream), and a sturdy apple turnover are delicious. But knowing pastry chef Jessica Anderson’s baking prowess, it’s hard not to long for more. Better to finish the evening at the bar, where old-fashioned cocktails and amusing aperitifs are stirred and shaken by some of the city’s rock star bartenders.

Stellar Cast
With such a collection of culinary notables, Nick and Eddie ought to be great. Baker and pastry genius Jessica Anderson serves up scones and breakfast pastries for weekend brunch; Vranian, formerly of Murray’s, North Coast, and Jeremiah Tower’s Stars, San Francisco (the source of his menu’s French brasserie inspiration), has gathered a seasoned kitchen crew; Scott Ida of Aquavit and Goodfellow’s is general manager; and “head waiter” Doug Anderson had a firm hand in the design and execution, working with Terry Chance of Site Assembly.

By the holidays, Nick and Eddie will offer a late-night menu from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m. “We’ll have hamburgers made with house-ground steak, along with late-night breakfast offerings,” says Vranian. Just right for a bite after the theater or movie, Nick and Eddie is a vibrant neighborhood spot with big city soul.