Heidi's

Address
819 W. 50th St., Mpls., 612-354-3512

The Scene
Little has changed since the days when this Lynnhurst storefront was the home of Pane Vino Dolce. Most notably, there’s a fresh coat of faux marble paint, a bunch of onions has replaced the flowers in the funky ceiling centerpiece, and cloth and paper crown the wooden tables. The two narrow dining rooms seat slightly fewer guests, which thins things out a bit. The effect is at once romantic and functional, and Heidi’s attracts an eclectic mix of diners that ranges from starry-eyed couples to multi-generational families, though the ambience is not fundamentally informal.

Our Take
The third time around for acclaimed chef Stewart Woodman seems well on its way to being the charm. Following ill-fated stints at Levain and Five, Woodman and his wife and pastry chef, Heidi, are now partners in a neighborhood restaurant serving destination food. Woodman seems very much in his element: Dish after dish pleased with elegant simplicity. When was the last time you raved about a spinach salad? The version here, which incorporates pink peppercorns, Asiago cheese, thin mushroom slices, and a tangy vinaigrette, evoked such a reaction. Ditto the vegetarian pasta “Bolognese,” featuring porcini mushrooms over homemade pappardelle of cloudlike consistency. An appetizer arrangement of ahi tuna slices flavored with honey, cumin, and apple cider vinegar—seared and served on a bed of eggplant topped with fried leeks—was spot-on. So was an order of chicken “lollipops”—a quintet of flavorful confit nuggets repositioned on cleansed bones. If you peek into the tiny kitchen, you’ll quickly appreciate why the menu is as abbreviated as it is, though my hope is that Woodman will revise the choices frequently. Prices are definitely at the affordable end—the most expensive entrée is $19—and the appealing appetizer menu is perfect for grazers.

Reconciliation
On the evening of my first visit, I was stunned to be greeted by Michael Morse, the itinerant restaurateur. Although many regard him as an enfant terrible, I happen to think he’s a smart and knowledgeable front-of-the-house presence, though he has not sustained an extended tenure anywhere since closing café un deux trois. He and Woodman reportedly had a rocky time of it during Levain’s early days, but have mended fences. Morse was hired as a consultant to improve service, which, in my opinion, was one of the causes of the spectacular failure at Five. Woodman has also made amends with Levain owner Harvey McLain, so much so that he is a frequent guest and often personally delivers Heidi’s bread from his Turtle Bread Bakery.