Midori’s Floating World Café

In the ever-evolving, ever-more fabulous universe that is East Lake Street, there is also chaos. Beyond mere traffic circling for parking, there are urbanites disembarking from the LRT, hipster couples dashing across busy streets to get to Town Talk Diner, and well-dressed Latinas on their way to a hot night of music at El Nuevo Rodeo. Among all of this, there is an escape: Midori’s Floating World.

The tiny slip of a Japanese restaurant sits quietly just off the main drag and, as the name suggests, acts as an oasis in a bustling neighborhood. On the weeknight we were there, tables gradually filled with boho moms and their kids, Asian couples, construction workers. Single diners quickly claimed seats at the sushi bar, save the one on the end where the owners’ daughter dutifully did her homework. By the time we were ready to give up our table, there were a few people waiting for it.

It’s almost as if the well-worn tables and gathering clutter of lucky cat figurines and neighborhood flyers have given this place the mellow charm it needed. I can’t imagine it felt the same when it was shiny and new. Waiting for my date to arrive, it struck me that this place reminded me a little of a hole-in-the-wall noodle shop I’ve been to in New York, the kind of place that everyone laments are in short supply locally.

The menu is just as easygoing. Sushi is fresh and flavorful but for the most part plays it safe. The list of rolls will satisfy any cravings, but outside the Roll from Hell (hot, hot peppers) and the Spam nigiri (ew), you won’t find much beyond the ordinary. Thick soba noodles were hearty and gratifying, topped with a well-crisped tempura of veggies and shrimp. A neighboring table suggested we come back on Sunday for okonomiyaki, the Japanese egg pancake that makes a filling meal.

Relaxed, I ordered some tea from the extensive list. With only two servers manning the entire restaurant, it was no surprise that the pot arrived as we were completely finished and ready to go.

Those looking for the latest Japanese food adventure should zoom right past Midori’s. Those seeking a quiet haven with comfortable food and humble manner, Floating World found.