Tejas

Many of us who remember the worldly and ambitious iteration of Tejas that was at the now-demolished Conservatory have never entirely warmed up to the Santa Fe–cliché version at 50th and France. Through a panoply of chefs and hosts, the restaurant has veered between competent and very good, and it currently seems to be on an upswing, as a meal a few weeks ago confirmed. Things got off to a running start with a delicious grilled artichoke with a winning lemon remoulade, followed by a ramekin of delectable chipotle barbecue shrimp with pointless and rock-hard goat cheese–cumin croutons. Hickory-grilled flank steak fajitas anchor the populist side of the menu, and were way better than the chain standard—the meat cooked as ordered, the porter steak sauce delectable, the accompanying salsas interesting—what’s expected at $18.95. On the upscale side of the menu, sun corn-crusted wild Alaskan salmon proved delicious, draped over bacon and corn mashed potatoes on a charred Fresno chili vinaigrette. The server asked how well I’d like my salmon, and it was cooked exactly that way. Tejas’s signature blue corn sticks arrive with every meal. A summery toasted lemon pound cake with berries made for a winning conclusion, or would have, had it not been burnt on one side, then flipped over—hiding it from the expediter, but not my taste buds. Service is professional and welcoming, the greeting from the host somewhat less so. Tejas soldiers on, still the Twin Cities’ only true Southwestern restaurant. It may not quite evoke an evening on Santa Fe’s Plaza, but for a restaurant with a monopoly position on its cuisine, Tejas is better and smarter than it needs to be and we can thank goodness for that.

3910 W. 50th St., Edina, 952-926-0800