Tria

Tria has always been that restaurant with great bones but a week heart. It is the only upscale, food-focused spot between Forest Lake, the St. Croix, and St. Paul with the possible exception of Lake Elmo Inn. Yet that hasn’t brought it the kind of dedicated patronage and “fixture” status that you’d expect. It has been through a succession of chefs and many tweaks of direction. It has been good to excellent some years, poor to mediocre in others. Through it all, those great bones—the cozy bar; the warm, attractive, clubby dining rooms; the festive patio—endured. What was missing? Consistency for one, which breeds loyalty, the lifeblood of a restaurant. Morrissey Hospitality (St. Paul Grill, restaurant Max) seemingly was looking in that direction when it hired Joanne Schmitt and then Kathleen Wagner, both veterans of the Minneapolis outpost of buttoned-down national steak house chain Morton’s, to boost the franchise. Replacing Shelagh Connolly (who replaced Joan Ida, whose tenure was probably the kitchen’s high point) as chef was Brian Bossert. Tria wasn’t looking for a “name” or food innovator. The goal was consistently executable good food that’s right for the north suburban customer. The end result is encouraging. The kitchen is no longer pushing overly complex dishes that test its mettle and diners’ tastes, and it seems able to get simple things right now—the doneness of a burger, soup that’s the proper thickness, hot food served hot. The menu is simpler, there’s choice for all budgets, and the ambitions seem in line with the market. Dishes I liked include the addictive mushroom puff appetizer with Boursin cheese and Dijon mustard; a tasty spinach salad with dried cherries, walnuts, and blue cheese; seared sea scallops with a light herb risotto; perfectly cooked beef tenderloin; and a side dish of acorn squash casserole. There is a broad and appealing kids menu as well. When the kitchen errs, it’s typically on the side of too rich or sweet, which seems to be in the Minnesota DNA. Sadly, the long-struggling Tria Market has gone away, as has its lunch café menu—a concession to reality. But otherwise, if there is an audience for simple, consistent, upmarket dining in these 'burbs, it should resonate with the changes at Tria. It’s hard to unscramble the egg; diners make up their minds. But for those who give Tria a second, third, or fourth look, they’ll probably like what they see.
5959 Centerville Rd., North Oaks, 651-426-9222