Victor’s 1959 Café

For those who have never eaten at Victor’s, a slip of a restaurant, you’re missing out on one of our quirkiest eating experiences. From the twinkly Christmas lights that provide ambient lighting in the evening to the thousands of names and slogans tattooed, etched, magically markered, and glued to the walls, everything is muy casual and muy tasty.

Victor’s has been a breakfast and lunch house for almost seven years. Passionately loyal patrons queue up for the mango waffles with whipped cream, and cinnamon, or bistec criolla, a monstrous plate of sliced beef with eggs, peppers, garlic, and onions in an orange-lime mojo. Lunch gets crowded, but with only a couple dozen seats, the room feels full even when you’re the only one eating in it. The lunch menu is simple: some sandwiches, some small plates, and Victor’s Cubano, which adds chorizo to the classic pressed Cuban sandwich.

Recently, Victor’s opened for dinner, and owner Niki Valens—who shares cooking duties with her émigré husband, Victor (“Make sure it says that he works for me.”)—puts out a raft of tasty food despite the kitchen’s Lilliputian dimensions. In Cuba, where there are few restaurants, most cooking takes place in paladares, local homes whose doors are thrown open to locals and tourists alike. Thus, Cuban restaurant fare is very homey in preparation and presentation. Victor’s delivers it with a friendly and accommodating attitude.

Go with a crowd and load up with starters of perfectly constructed pork tamals, ham croquetas, empanadas in your choice of chicken, beef, or cheese, or a simple plate of chopped avocado and red onion with garlic vinaigrette. For entrées, the classic and piquant ground beef picadillo, fried pork cutlets with yucca fries, and a traditional ropa vieja of shredded flank steak braised with tomatoes and garlic are all well-made and generously portioned. They come with fried plantains (tostones) and a choice of three different rices (be sure to try the rice and black bean combo). Our one complaint: Sides of mojo (the ubiquitous Cuban marinade/ sauce) and sliced limes should come with all dishes and you should not have to repeatedly request them. You won’t forgive yourself if you skip a slice of flan with grated coconut—a tropical treat that is one of the best sweet endings in town.

3756 Grand Ave. S., Mpls., 612-827-8948