Joe’s Garage

When Joe’s Garage opened in the summer of 1996, chef and owner Joe Kaplan—inspired by Marcel Desaulnier’s 1994 book, Burger Meisters—was manning the helm of a gourmet burger haus with a few eclectic specials. Joe’s was the place for New Age takes on an American culinary icon.

Fast forward nine years: Joe’s is still packin’ ’em in, and the reinvented burgers are still on the menu—but Kaplan and his new chef, Karl Lichtfuss, have tilted the scales toward comfort food. You might be able to buy sushi at SuperAmerica, but would you want to? It’s hard to imagine a visit to Joe’s for anything but an ice-cold beer and a great burger.

In this business, it’s innovate or perish, and Kaplan is a savvy operator with impressive survival skills. Most restaurants don’t last nine years, and it’s a good bet Joe’s will last another nine. As years have gone by, Kaplan has added many new components. Most recently, he expanded into the old Starbucks space next door and created a great bar space that is distinctly separate from the restaurant. But he’s also added a build-your-own mashed-potato section to the menu that’s not as alluring.

As for the kitchen output, the grilled chicken with roasted mushrooms and sage gravy was nicely turned out, but many other combinations, such as the Cajun meatballs with ratatouille, are a reach. Others are gut busters—the bratwurst– cheddar cheese sauce– broccoli–mashed potato plate, for example, is good for two bites before you plunge into glycemic shock. Pastas, risottos (the jambalaya is the best of the bunch), and what Kaplan calls comfort food entrées dominate the rest of the menu.

Pasta dishes seemed hastily thrown together and ingredient quality was suspect—plastic-y shreds of a Parmesan-like cheese don’t cut it at any price range. Stick with the addictive teriyaki chicken wings or other grilled appetizers, but steer clear of the cream cheese egg rolls. Then head for the burgers, which are still among the best in town. The spicy Asian pork burger with napa cabbage slaw and red pepper mayo is my favorite; second place goes to the lamb burger with olive tapenade, sun-dried tomatoes, and Feta; fries are first rate.

The restaurant rocks in the warm months: Joe’s rooftop dining area overlooking Loring Park is a Twin Cities institution. When Joe’s first opened, the idea of heading there for something other than a burger seemed daft to me—in the same way it does today. If you want a simple plate of tortellini, head to Broders’. If you want a great burger, eat at Joe’s.

1610 Harmon Place, Mpls., 612-904-1163