NalaPak

When Udupi Café abruptly closed last summer, the effect was a little more staggering than anticipated. I only ate there about once a month, but like many, I relied on Udupi the same way you depend on a close friend who is always there. I took for granted that the restaurant would always be around. Where else could I go for supremely seasoned and complex regional Indian fare with nuanced flavor variations, a respect for authentic cooking styles, and deftly cooked dishes that required real skill? Many of the other Indian restaurants in town are fair to good, but not great. Mostly they all serve the same foods, prepared in the same style. So when Udupi reopened as NalaPak, under new ownership, I was cautiously optimistic. But my old friend has returned in full force, serving the most fully flavored and varied menu of regional Indian vegetarian and vegan cuisine in the Twin Cities.

NalaPak’s emphasis is on southern Indian fare, and the dosai from that region are world famous. NalaPak’s are as good as these traditional hand-foods get—paper–thin curled sheets of lentil and rice crepes surrounding fillings such as curried potatoes and onions. Dosai are complimentary at the lunch buffet, which to my mind is still one of the best values around. For under $10, you can choose from a selection of more than two dozen items, all made in small batches—the best meal for the money in town.

For the uninitiated, the buffet is a great way to try many mysterious foods. Medhu vada are small lentil doughnuts, perfect for dunking in one of the five or six killer chutneys and sauces. The samosas, chat papri (small wafers with vegetables and herbs), and the uthappam (open-faced Indian crepes) are great starters. The paneer dishes with homemade farmer’s cheese are superb and the bread selection is deep—I love the paratha and chappati, both perfect for sopping up every last bit of curry, of which, the eggplant version is the tartest and spiciest in town.

NalaPak is not much different than Udupi. Most of the décor is unchanged, there’s some fresh paint, even some old Udupi signage, but none of that is a negative. The service is straightforward—no frills, but no disappointments either. It is well worth the trip to Columbia Heights if you love great food.

4920 Central Ave. NE, Columbia Heights, 763-574-1113