Cosmos

Going out on top is not often the storyline of a chef’s career, but that’s what happened last winter when Seth Bixby Daugherty left Cosmos. The Graves 601 Hotel moved quickly, hiring Ritz–Carlton and 21 Club alum Stephen Trojahn in January to run the hotel’s food operations. Pastry queen Khan Tranh, most recently at 20.21 and Levain, came aboard as well. Cosmos has not missed a beat. In fact, with Daugherty’s foundation to build on, Trojahn is in the enviable position of batting cleanup with the bases loaded.

Trojahn has a deep resumé and displays a superb touch with regional American cuisine, without falling victim to the braise malaise that grips many young chefs who look at it as the only arrow in their quiver. Trojahn insists on plating with finesse and incorporating multiple elements of cooked food, not clever assemblages of smartly purchased fare. He is sourcing and creating food not found in other restaurants in our region, making Cosmos a unique experience.

Remember the setting? A sleek dining room, stunning tableware, and Brazilian rosewood finishes.

Dinner is where this restaurant shines, when customers have time to enjoy the polished service and myriad multicourse offerings. Steak tartare with orange foam and dwarf truffled peaches was beautifully constructed and tasted even better. Seared scallops came with Cosmos’s own truffled pasta, plus saffron and trout roe—the little pearls popping saline into your mouth alongside the buttery linguine. A foie gras course united a seared slice and a Sambuca-laced torchon with a licorice caramel crisp that you need to taste to believe. Among the  entrées, the halibut confit served with stewed cauliflower, nestled in a pool of tomato water and doused with capers, olives, and basil, was the essence of the Mediterranean in a bowl. Butter-poached lobster was sparked with a sturdy red curry that anchored the spring onion risotto in which it was nestled, while a venison chop with sweet rutabaga gnocchi was elevated by a juniper gelée. Plus, Cosmos serves Wagyu beef for those anxious to try the real thing. The cassis sorbet alone was worth the price of admission, but the chocolate meritage with which it was partnered showcased Tranh’s able skills. At $60, the tasting menu offers six courses, including a foie course—add a wine flight for another $38.

These days many restaurants fall victim to the mistaken notion that they need to be more like other restaurants. Cosmos goes the other way, a route worth exploring.

Graves 601 Hotel, 601 1st Ave. N., Mpls., 612-312-1168