W.A. Frost

At the end of last year, chef Russ Klein left (or was asked to leave, depending on whom you talk to) W.A. Frost, the St. Paul heritage restaurant he helped reestablish. Klein was preparing to start his own restaurant, his attention to detail waned, he and management parted ways, and understudy Leonard Anderson took over the kitchen. His food is better than ever.

Anderson’s plates are beautifully composed, he delights in textural and temperature contrasts, and he clearly has been worshipping the styles of legendary local chefs Alex Roberts, Steven Brown, and Doug Flicker. Frost’s owner, John Rupp, should nurture and develop the young chef, something most restaurateurs fail to do until it’s too late.

Steamed mussels were plump and perfect, and the carpaccio and gravlax plates were so vividly composed and neatly accentuated with teeny garnish delights that I wanted to order a second of each. The cured salmon on Frost’s menu might have been the best I have tasted in town since Aquavit closed. But entrées all need to lose an ingredient or two. Rhubarb and mushroom detracted from the roast chicken when the corn fondant was enough. Mango risotto was meaningless under a perfectly seared duck breast. The exception is the symphonic tuna plate, crusted in potato and teamed with fennel purée, cider-braised chard, and small puddles of charred tomato-and–black olive vinaigrette. Tasting menus at Frost begin at $50 and are superb, but the dishes fail to play off one another. Stuff I was less fond of suffered from ingredient overdose. A grilled scallop on warm soba noodles could have come without the roasted red pepper that blurred any connection to the mushrooms, fried palm hearts, and coconut-lemongrass broth. Less is more.

The wine list, accomplished service (it’s better in winter when the patio crowds aren’t stressing everyone out), cheese offerings, and Sara Walter’s delightful desserts are all rock solid. I can’t think of a nicer bar for a drink than the twinkly Victorian room at Frost, but the place really needs to deep-clean and spruce up its dining rooms. If Anderson stays and Rupp supports his talent and makes needed kitchen upgrades, W.A. Frost has a real shot at legendary status beyond the realm of winter fireplaces and summer greenery. Stay tuned.

374 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651-224-5715