Cafe Levain

Last winter, Restaurant Levain—one of my favorite intimate eateries—closed its doors, unable to sustain its business. Foodies and critics adored it, but local customers, weekly diners, and neighborhood types never took a shine to it. The chefs who worked there have all moved on, and many of the kitchen alums, having worked there for Stewart Woodman or Steven Brown, are now chefs, sous chefs, and pastry chefs in some of the best restaurants in town. The new Cafe Levain is a sweet little spot with some very nice food and room to grow. But there is no magic, no umami in the experience, none of that indescribable feeling that signals a hit. Perhaps I feel the ghosts more than I care to admit?

I’m not sure how much of an effect on business a little wainscoting, some ketchup bottles on the tables, a chef switcheroo, and a new menu can make. And despite all the physical changes, the one Levain should have made years ago to attract local customers is the one that still is nonexistent—signage!

Eric Sturtz’s kitchen offers a lovely soup each evening—on one visit it was a sterling watercress purée with preserved lemon sorbet. Pork rillettes were sturdy but needed more fat and salt. The note on the menu that it is “similar to pâté” was a sad reminder of why the first Levain tanked. Not content to let the food or experience speak for itself, management has decided to educate its customer. Oy vey. Arugula salad with artichoke and green beans was superbly French, with gobs of velvety emulsified vinaigrette. Mussels and crispy frog legs were both lovely starters. Stunning braised beef short ribs and duck confit with a red wine-and-blackberry reduction were the best entrées I sampled. A side order of macaroni gratin was as good as that dish gets. Desserts needed a lot of work.

I have always been of the opinion that when it comes to remaking a restaurant in the same physical space you need to close the doors and offer a new concept to customers. Otherwise, you run the risk of inevitable comparisons to the old venue. Cafe Levain is a very nice spot for dinner—the room is warm, the kitchen shows promise, and the staff is enthusiastic—but having visited the old restaurant, you can’t sit in this incarnation without missing the old days terribly.

4762 Chicago Ave., Mpls., 612-823-7111