Istanbul Bistro

Strip mall dining can be a dicey affair. While there are clearly some hidden gems among the tanning salons and dry cleaners of the world, the real trick is finding the worthy among the purely average. When it opened a few years ago in a Wayzata strip mall, Istanbul Bistro was heralded as a vibrant and exotic oasis in the western suburban dining scene. Replacing the favored but tired Grazzi, it promised Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine to an area nearly starving for ethnic food.

When you’re banked by a bird feed store and printing shop, glamour may be hard to come by. Truth be told, the interior of Istanbul has changed little from its Grazzi days and currently is a little worse-for-wear. Dated dark wood furnishings and spotty paper menus may give some cause to lower expectations, but they shouldn’t, because the flavors remain bright.

The menu has gone largely unchanged since its first debut, and the food would be familiar to anyone who has eaten in a Greek or Middle East joint. We ordered kebabs and, far from the charred and dry meat clumps we often encounter, the chicken was moist and the shrimp plump and crisped. They carried a nice citrus and herb bite.

Char-grilled rack of lamb is a standard route, but we picked lamb claypot stew from the list of specials. Rewarded with soft and tender bites of lamb in an earthy sauce, we knew we’d chosen well. The other big winner was the kumkapi, which paired pan-seared shrimp and a tangy feta sauce with a slight red pepper kick. Skip the unremarkable and bland hummus, as well as the dry and very average gyros.

Service is a highlight here. Our veteran server was on top of her game, and her warm and welcoming personality was enough to outshine the drab surroundings.

Whether it’s in spite of or because of the local Euro-centric dining scene, Istanbul has created a loyal following: we witnessed more than a few people being greeted at the door by name. Strip mall dining may not be fine dining, but the soul of Istanbul makes it a worthy find.