Summer Whites

We all get stuck in ruts. We go with what works, from the type of car we drive to the way we fold our laundry. For a lot of people, summer is beer or gin and tonic time. In recent summers, I’ve been sticking with New Zealand sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio from Italy (plus G&Ts with old-school Bombay). Others go straight for their standby chardonnay. This summer, mix it up a bit with the whites that the rest of the world depends on to get through their heat. These wines are young, see little or no oak, and are not made to be cellared.

TASTINGS

This month’s selections are available at Thomas Liquors, 1941 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-699-1860

Pavão Vinho Verde 2008 (Santo Tirso, Portugal), $7.99
Loureiro, pedernã, and trajadura. You can forget the names of those grapes, because you will never see them again in print. This is a very light and crisp white wine with lime acids, tart fruit, and a touch of effervescence. Best enjoyed on its own while your bare feet dangle in the water or on the cool grass.

Hirsch Gruner Veltliner 2007 (Niederosterreich, Austria), $18.99
Austria’s answer to pinot grigio is almost colorless and has fresh, light fruit with minerals and a hint of spice. The finish is dry and reminds me of a sandy beach. Try with a chilled tomato and bell pepper pasta salad.

Cave de Montagnac Picpoul 2007 (Languedoc, France), $8.99
Picpoul blanc is a white grape from the south of France. It is not widely available but is well worth the search. Balanced and medium-bodied with tart citrus, this wine sees no oak, and that lets the refreshing lemon and orange fruit come popping through. It’s just waiting for some fresh oysters or chilled shrimp.

Leasingham Magnus Riesling 2007 (Clare Valley, Australia), $11.99
Riesling, yes. Dry, yes! This is not your grandma’s riesling. It is rich, lush, and lemony with intense fruit, especially for a wine at this price. Try it—even you “I hate riesling” people.

Salneval Albariño 2007 (Rías Baixas, Spain), $11.99
Spain is a dreamland for complex, earthy, over-delivering wines, and this one is no exception. Grown in that little wedge of northwest Spain on the Atlantic, Albariño is Spain’s best seafood grape and may be the best in the world. I have yet to find an Albariño I don’t love. This one is full-flavored with minerals and crisp lemon/lime acids. Sauté some fresh halibut or grill up that walleye and enjoy.

Bill Coy runs Vintage U, which organizes wine tastings, classes, and events for corporate groups, wine enthusiasts, and the general public. Reach him at VintageU@msn.com.