Introducing Lodi

I was pouring wine for a friend recently, and after telling her it was from Lodi, she replied—“And?” I realized that she, and perhaps many people, had no idea where Lodi was or why she should care. But reasons to care abound. Lodi is a large and warm wine region in northern California. It sits halfway between San Francisco and the Sierra foothills, just south of Sacramento. Known for its bulk production and its zinfandel grown on very old vines, Lodi is gaining notoriety for producing some very good and affordable wines from many grape varietals.

Tastings
This month’s selections are available at South Lyndale Liquors, 5300 Lyndale Ave. S., Mpls., 612-827-5811.

Campus Oaks Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $10.99
Bright, crisp, and evoking lemon-lime sorbet, this is the Goldilocks of sauvignon blanc—it’s “just right.” It’s not a tropical fruit bomb à la New Zealand, or all minerals and slate like a Sancerre, but balanced in the middle. Drink this on its own or try it with sautéed chicken breast with a splash of lemon.

Peirano Estate “The Other” 2006, $14.99
65% chardonnay, 25% sauvignon blanc, 10% viognier
This wine has a sexy label and actually delivers something in the bottle. It’s rich, full, and fun. It smells and tastes like lemon meringue pie, with notes of vanilla and a hint of sweetness on the end. There is a group of you out there who will drink this one all night long. You know who you are.

Laurel Glen Reds 2007, $9.99
60% zinfandel, 30% carignane, 10% petite sirah (from 40- to 118-year-old vines)
This is a lot of wine for the money and it’s from a highly respected producer. It’s big and bold with dark blackberry fruit and a spicy black pepper finish. It’s not too high in alcohol and has soft acids (so a second glass will be in order). It will need some food; my wife and I thought spicy sausage pizza from Broders’ was a brilliant pairing.

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, $10.99
Cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah, and malbec
After getting an initial whiff of flowers and cedar, I was pleasantly surprised by the big and tart berry fruit on the palate. This wine needs food—cheese or a flatiron steak with roasted onions and potatoes should do the trick. Without food, the tannins will make your teeth feel like they have little Irish sweaters on them.

Century Oak Old Vines Zinfandel 2004, $14.99 
Old vines produce fewer grapes but more intense fruit. There is no legal or industry standard for the term “old vine,” though, so buyer beware. This is a good one, made from 57- to 82-year-old vines. It’s dark and spicy— concentrated and affordable zin at its best.

Bill Coy runs Vintage U, which organizes wine tastings, classes, and events for corporate groups, wine enthusiasts, and the general public. Reach him at VintageU@msn.com.