Food + Drink

Calamari
Minnesota is America’s number-four calamari-producing state, so we have a lot of it. But quantity doesn’t necessarily mean quality. Unless you’re at Campiello, where the portions are generous and the quality—tempura-batter-kissed rings (no mini octopi) of profound tenderness—is unimpeachable. The spicy aioli adds the perfect grace note. 1320 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-825-2222; 6411 City West Pkwy., Eden Prairie, 952-941-6868 [top]

Italian-Casual
There are very few fine Italian restaurants, and you all know the good ones. But there are so many casual Italian restaurants that you could eat through the current Pope’s entire papacy and not hit them all. So see the light and get to Broders’ Pasta Bar, where chef Michael Rostance offers casual, pasta-based Italian cooking that’s true to the way it’s made in Italy—flavorful, restrained, simple, seasonal, and fresh. And the after-8 p.m. deals are wicked good. 5000 Penn Ave. S., Mpls., 612-925-9202 [top]

Earnest Eatin’
There’s not much soul food in the Twin Cities, but Tracy Singleton’s Birchwood Cafe is a restaurant with soul. It’s about a connection to farmers and the land, a commitment to honest food, and a real presence in its  Seward community. No, this isn’t tofu scramble and unsweetened apple crumble; it’s informal, tasty organic fare with a serious nod to families and vegetarians. Brunch is superb. 3311 E. 25th St., Mpls., 612-722-4474 [top]

Culinary Decadence
To some chefs, decadence is exotic imported herbs or three different sauces and eleven ingredients on a plate. At Café Lurçat, decadence is old school: Take the signature buckwheat crepes with Brie de meaux, smoked Kentucky ham, and figs. They are simplicity on a plate—a marriage of strong, authentic flavors paired in amazing harmony, in a way you’d never make at home. 1624 Harmon Pl., Mpls., 612-486-5500 [top]

Neighborhood Bistro
{Minneapolis} Chef Michael Hart has returned to Zander Cafe, but we’re confident Duplex is going to remain one of the metro’s most charming neighborhood spots. It’s the complete package—great service, a fantastic sense of place, and a foodie-friendly menu that’s still approachable to the common folk. 2516 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-381-0700

{St. Paul} It’s something of an old-timer nowadays, but we’d argue things have never been better at Muffuletta. Chef JD Fratzke’s connections to local farmers and food artisans keeps things inventive and seasonal, but he never forgets the neighborhood clientele that keeps the place going, so the burgers are great too, as is the 1977 beer cheese soup. 2260 Como Ave., St. Paul, 651-644-9116 [top]

New Restaurant
{Foodie} Everyone is raving about Sameh Wadi’s modern Middle Eastern–influenced spot, Saffron, home to beautifully plated, deliciously conceived cooking. When we reviewed it this summer, we loved everything from the lamb shoulder to the scallops in saffron sauce. There’s a bargain bar menu too. 123 N. 3rd St., Mpls., 612-746-5533

{Masses} Even vegetarians like Fogo de Chão, the theatrical Brazilian steak house where roving gauchos offer succulent slices hot off the rotisserie. That’s because the other attraction at Fogo is a gluttonously gorgeous high-end salad bar that serves as a prelude to the meditation on meat to come. City Center, 645 Hennepin Ave., Mpls., 612-338-1344 [top]

Pizza
Modest, authentic, perfectly proportioned, an acquired taste, but ultimately addictive. Punch’s Neapolitan pies are still the best in town. Multiple metro locations [top]

Restaurant Idea
David Webb’s Good Day Cafe is the breakfast/lunch spot the inner burbs needed. Robust, high-quality, familiar fare, without foodie pretense or theatricality. The warm environment packs ’em in. If GDC ever finishes its to-go counter and adds dinner, the place could be perfect. But imagine the lines. 5410 Wayzata Blvd., Golden Valley, 763-544-0205 [top]

Sichuan
Tea House in Plymouth gets the vote by a hair over Little Szechuan, in a category that’s still thin, but suddenly vibrant. Tea House is a bit more consistent and the standards that bring out the crowds tend to be more flavorful and carefully prepared—from fish over pickled vegetables to kung pao, pork with garlic sauce, and the ever-popular Dan Dan, or spicy cold noodles. Willow Grove Center, 88 Nathan Ln., Plymouth, 763-544-3422 [top]

Suburban Crowd-Pleaser
Big restaurants with big menus are common in the suburbs, but we think Jimmy’s Food and Cocktails offers a little extra zing, from the dining room’s attractive murals to the better-than-it-needs-to-be classic American fare to a bar that’s a pleasure to be in—Jimmy’s delivers urbane panache in a neck of the woods that can use some. 11000 Red Circle Dr., Minnetonka, 952-224-5858 [top]

Retro Dining
{Minneapolis} For those who find this era of culinary frenzy dizzying, the wood-paneled circa 1947 Oak Grill on the twelfth floor of Macy’s hearkens back to an era when restaurants survived more than two years and were less about dazzling than welcoming. And truth be told, the food is better than in the Dayton’s days—meat loaf and pot pie are what the traditionalists expect. Macy’s, 700 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-375-2938

{St. Paul} It’s in its seventies, but The Lexington is still one of the power spots in St. Paul. The hub of the action is the bar, where people-watching is always great. Go for pork chops with Creole hash or the short ribs, turkey dinner, or bone-in tenderloin. 1096 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 651-222-5878 [top]

Diner
{Old School} The crowd at Mickey’s can be a bit creepy, but if you want classic scratch diner cooking, unrefined, but fresh and unstinting, Mickey’s flies the flag of an era long past. For breakfast, or any time of day for that matter, the blueberry pancakes are superb and so are the omelets. 36 W. 7th St., St. Paul, 651-222-5633

{Modern} The boys who redid Town Talk Diner have brought back a Lake Street institution. The menu is yuppified, but heck, scallion and caper cheese curds kick the state fair’s butt, and they serve alcoholic shakes. From the creative stuff to the standards, everything’s fresh and tasty. Sit at the counter if the wait for a table is too long. 2707-1/2 E. Lake St., Mpls., 612-722-1312

{Foodie} Signature meat loaf and pot roast notwithstanding, it’s hard to say Phillip Becht is cooking diner fare at Northeast’s Modern Cafe. Unpretentious and modest to the max, the Modern is committed to local foods and growers and to some very sophisticated fare on a menu that changes with the seasons. 337 13th Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-378-9882 [top]

Eggs
{Lunch} The $15 omelet at Mission American Kitchen is creative, carefully prepared, and consistently delicious. We doubt Doug Flicker’s cooking them, but his standards are held up in every one, whether today’s is stuffed with lamb sausage and herbs or tomato and mozzarella. IDS Center, 77 S. 7th St., Mpls., 612-339-1000

{Dinner} Isaac Becker’s sumptuous bacon-egg-harissa sandwich doesn’t jump from the menu at 112 Eatery, but trust us, chickens couldn’t be happier about what he’s done with their eggs. At $7, the price is worth clucking about too. 112 N. 3rd St., Mpls., 612-343-7696 [top]

Crab Cake
Morton’s raised the bar on crab cakes a few years ago, and now everybody’s cleaning them up. The latest example is at McCormick and Schmick’s spinoff, M&S Grill. There’s no breading and precious little binder, thus lovers of lump crabmeat can be assuaged by the presence of plenty of sweet meat. Watch out Mort! 50 S. 6th St., Mpls., 612-333-2345 [top]

Originality
In an era when standards are back in vogue, Spoonriver’s menu knocks our socks off. This is not a place for classicists, as genres and culinary regions mix, match, and dance among sweet and savory, crisp and soft, organic and local. Liz Benser and Lisa Carlson’s menus and Carrie Summer’s pastries give new meaning to originality without seeming to experiment at the customer’s expense. 750 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-436-2236 [top]

Seasonal Dining
The menus may change with the seasons at W.A. Frost, but we’re talking ambience here. The summer patio is arguably the choicest spot to dine outdoors in the metro area, and at the holidays and in winter, the twinkly lights, fireplaces, and seasonal décor make Frost a wonderland. 374 Selby Ave., St. Paul, 651-224-5715 [top]

Surprise
Who expected that the folks at Taher, Inc., which provides food service for institutions, would create the best new suburban restaurant of 2007? But Wayzata Eatery is just that—a warm, inviting, creative destination restaurant and wine bar. 1179 E. Wayzata Blvd., Wayzata, 952-288-2866 [top]

Grocery Takeout
Bombay 2 Deli has a couple of Indian moms in the kitchen serving homemade curries, rice, and chappati (crisp-roasted buttered bread) for $5.50. Samosas are to die for and are served with homemade chutney. Have a mango shake while you rethink the inclination to go into the grocery aisles and try it at home. 1840 Central Ave. NE, Mpls., 612-788-4571 [top]

Peking Duck Value
Yummy is now Relax, and relax you will over a $17.95 two-course drama that starts with a platter of crackling skin and meat with traditional accompaniments of steamed buns, hoisin sauce, and julienned scallions. The second course is a choice of either soup made from the skinless duck or a stir-fry of the meat and greens. There’s no need to order ahead. 2450 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-870-8000 [top]

French
{Populist} Chef Landon Schoenefeld has risen above the mustard incident at Bulldog and reinvigorated Barbette’s menu of classic bistro fare (great Royale avec Cheese, roast chicken, charcuterie, wine list). Monday night’s prix fixe deals are a steal. 1600 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-827-5710

{Foodie} Rumors of Fugaise’s death (propagated by us, we’re sorry to say) are greatly exaggerated. In fact, Don Saunders’s modern French fare continues to draw raves and his dishes look as good as they taste. If there is an unfairly overlooked restaurant in the Twin Cities, it is his. 308 Hennepin Ave. E., Mpls., 612-436-0777 [top]

Conversion of Tofu into Something Great
Forget bland, coagulated soybean curd. At Peninsula Malaysian Cuisine, the ingredient soars to superlative heights in “spicy and salted golden tofu.” Homemade tofu is battered and fried to a golden turn, crisp on the outside, creamy inside, and exquisitely seasoned with onions, bell peppers, and a wonderfully hot chili mixture. 2608 Nicollet Ave., Mpls., 612-871-8282 [top]

Soup
Rarely has there been a new dish that’s created as widespread a swoon as the coconut basil soup at Café BonXai. The creamy, vegetable-mined potage is multidimensional beyond words. 1613 University Ave. W., St. Paul, 651-644-1444 [top]

Pasta
It’s cold, you’re tired, and your soul needs soothing with a classic bit of Italian culinary alchemy, but you’ve got no time for pretense or two hours in a restaurant. D’Amico & Sons’ linguine with mushrooms and pancetta is good enough to be served at D’Amico Cucina, but D&S will pack it in a to-go container and you can restore yourself with smoky, porky, woodsy, cheesy goodness while you watch American Idol. 11 metro locations [top]

Dining Room
The historic deco/moderne space that is the old Farmers & Mechanics Bank has been reclaimed to create a soaring, contemporary all-day restaurant in the new Westin Hotel. Bank is helmed by chef Todd Stein, whose cooking is modern, playful, and subtle. It’s garnered mixed reviews, but from the innovative bar scene to the dining counter overlooking the kitchen frenzy to the beautiful restoration of an underutilized space, this is one room that makes it hard for the food to compete. Minneapolis Westin, 88 S. 6th St., Mpls., 612-656-3255 [top]

Burger
Here’s the problem with most places that specialize in burgers: They habitually overcook the meat. Medium rare means well done. Medium means well done. Well done means cremated. Not at Morton’s. Their burger is a thing of beauty: a half-pound of ground sirloin crowned with anything you want, from cheese to bacon to onions to mushrooms to creamed spinach—for nary an upcharge— on a perfectly toasted bun! Here’s the other problem with places that specialize in burgers—they’re not Morton’s. Gaviidae Common, 555 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-673-9700 [top]

Service
Truly proper restaurant service is in its death throes in the Twin Cities. Even at top-tier spots, “Are ya’ still workin’ on that?” is uttered like a mantra and such common courtesies as a clean fork can’t be taken for granted. Not at La Belle Vie. The service here is gracious, unobtrusive, and impeccably proper. This may be the only restaurant in the Twin Cities where plates are removed only after every diner at the table has finished eating a course, so no one feels rushed. Despite the starched shirts, there’s no trace of snobbery. La Belle Vie makes you feel welcome, pampered, genuinely appreciated. That’s service. 510 Groveland Ave., Mpls., 612-874-6440 [top]

Signature Cocktail
A beautiful bar, lounge, and restaurant housed in a former bank could be called nothing other than Bank. Likewise, its signature cocktail could be called nothing other than The Bank. Made with Icelandic Reyka vodka, Cointreau, pomegranate juice, fresh lime, peach sparkling wine, and gold leaf garnish, it’s the prettiest way to end a long workday. 88 S. 6th St., Mpls., 612-656-3255 [top]

Local Beer
The best local beer also has the best name: Surly Furious. Brewed by Brooklyn Center’s Surly Brewing Company, Furious is a dark, hoppy, fragrant brew made with Golden Promise malt, the same stuff that’s used to make such fine scotches as The Macallan. It packs a punch too, with 6 percent alcohol. [top]

Irish Pub
Take some Old World charm, add authentic Irish bites and pints, mix in a contemporary after-work crowd, and you’ve got The Local, our pick for top Irish pub. We love what owner Kieran Folliard has done with the place, recently extending the bar and adding even more woodwork and etched glass flown in from Ireland. With multiple rooms and private dining spaces, plus an airy outdoor patio for warm days, The Local is a fantastic spot anytime of year. Plus, it has excellent happy hour deals. 931 Nicollet Mall, Mpls., 612-904-1000 [top]

Bar Menu
{casual} What if you halved The Cheesecake Factory’s massive portions of high-quality fare, priced them from $3 to 5, and offered them from 4 to 6 p.m. on weeknights? You’d have dinner for a song. The avocado egg rolls are killer, ditto the mac and cheese. Southdale Ctr., Edina, 952-653-3333

{swanky} La Belle Vie Lounge isn’t just for those of you who pay cash for your cars. Not in the bar, at least, where $5 gets you house-made rosemary-and-garlic potato chips and $10 snags a prosciutto di Parma–taleggio–black olive panini. To us, the “lounge” is more charming than the dining room. So wear a shirt, preferably a decent one, and dig in. 510 Groveland Ave., Mpls., 612-874-6440 [top]

Restaurant to Live the Dream
Edina: The ladies of leisure who lunch do it at Salut, the authentically French-looking brasserie (with occasionally French-tasting cuisine) where Edina meets Minneapolis. The people-watching is great, the hanger steak top-notch, and the vibe is as Edina as it gets. 5043 France Ave. S., Edina, 952-929-3764

North Oaks: Where Edina is notorious, North Oaks is cloistered, secretive, shy. Its clubhouse, Tria, is modest, yet comfortably luxurious. Shelagh Connolly’s food is gracious and eclectic, but most of all homey. The posing here all goes on behind closed doors. 5959 Centerville Rd., North Oaks, 651-426-9222 [top]