Prolific Perfumes
February 2007
By Melissa Colgan
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Profumo by Acqua di Parma
Profumo by Acqua di Parma was
once the fragrance of Hollywood’s
Golden Era—the favorite of Ava Gardner and Lana Turner. The nearly 100-year-old
fragrance is a sophisticated composition with top notes of bergamot and mandarin
mingled with light floral and smooth spice. Notes: Bergamot,
orange, ylang ylang, iris, grasse jasmine, rose, patchouli, oakmoss, gray amber,
vanilla. In an Essence:
Woodsy and sophisticated. $100.
Chérie, Wayzata,
952-475-2212
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Shalimar Parfum by Guerlain
Created by Jacques Guerlain at a time when Europeans
were fascinated with the Orient, Shalimar Parfum is Guerlain’s most successful
and enduring fragrance. Shalimar is named after “The Gardens of Shalimar,” where
the love of an Indian emperor and his wife Mumtaz-Mahal—for whom the Taj Mahal
was built—grew. Shalimar, with its “Forbidden Fragrance” tagline, first seduced
the world in 1925. Shalimar’s hazy oriental aroma is encased in an art deco
bottle, making it the quintessential oriental fragrance. Notes: Bergamot,
iris, vanilla, amber. In an Essence:
Powdery oriental. $104. Neiman Marcus, Mpls.,
612-339-2600
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Opium by Yves Saint Laurent
Introduced in 1977, Opium symbolizes Yves Saint Laurent's fascination with the
Orient. Opium arouses the senses with a blend of lush floral and deep woodsy
notes as well as rich spices. Opium has displayed some of the finest advertising
in the perfume industry—models such as Jerry Hall, Linda Evangelista, and Kate
Moss have graced the ads, shot by top fashion photographers, including Helmut
Newton and David Lynch. Notes: Tangerine,
plum, cloves, coriander, carnation, lily of the valley, rose, myrrh, opoponax,
castoreum, cedarwood, and sandalwood. In an Essence:
Spicy oriental. $63.50. Bloomingdale’s, Mall of America,
952-883-2500
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Chanel N°5
Coco
Chanel commissioned Ernest Beaux
to make six abstract perfumes—lab-produced
perfumes, conjuring up no precise floral scent—“a
woman’s
fragrance that smells like women.”
Each was numerically labeled, through No. 6. Chanel liked to No. 5 and
introduced it on May 5
, 1921
. Since the number five was Chanel’s
lucky number, the name stuck. The perfume hit cult status when Marilyn Monroe
claimed to a reporter that all she wore to bed were a few drops of No. 5. Notes: Ylang
ylang, neroli, grasse jasmine, may rose, with a hint of sandalwood and
vanilla. In an Essence: A
soft, abstract floral. $110.
Macy’s, Mpls., 612-375-2200
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Fracas by Robert Piguet
At the height of the Paris fashion movement in the 1930s and
1940s, a famous French couturier, Robert Piguet, was known for his eloquent,
seductive designs that encapsulated Parisienne style and sophistication. In
1944, Piguet debuted his first fragrance, the little known (and no longer
available) Bandit. Fracas was his more successful follow-up, which quickly became the signature fragrance
of a coterie of Parisian women. Notes: Tuberose,
jasmine, jonquil, gardenia, lily of the valley, white iris, orange, sandalwood,
vetiver, musk. In an Essence: A
fresh floral with s slight musk. $65-$95.
Nordstrom, Mall of
America, 952-883-2121
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LAir du Temps
The Paris fashion house of Nina Ricci, founded by Turin-born
Maria “Nina” Ricci and her son, Robert, in 1932, was known for its refined,
romantic, and feminine designs. In 1948, Robert introduced the iconic L’Air du
Temps fragrance. This ageless fragrance mirrors the feminine ideal of the
couturier’s designs. Notes: Jasmine,
gardenia, carnation, peach, sandalwood, jasmine, rosewood, neroli, vetiver In an Essence: A
heady floral composition. $49. Macy’s, Mpls., 612-375-2200
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Clive Christian 1872 Perfume Spray for Women
This is the Rolls Royce of fragrances. In 1999, Clive Christian acquired the Crown Perfumery, a
celebrated British perfume house established in 1872. The house acquired its
name after Queen Victoria granted the use of the royal crown as a mark of
quality and excellence. Inspired by history and tradition, Christian created
this new luxury perfume with exotic, natural ingredients, encased in a bottle
designed in 1872. Notes: Bergamot,
tangerine, rosemary, rose de mai, lily of the valley, jasmine, purple violet,
cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, erogen musk, and moss. In an Essence: A
spicy floral with hints of citrus. $285.
Neiman Marcus,
Mpls., 612-339-2600
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Eau du Ciel by Annick Goutal
Its French translation–water of the sky—is an apt description
for this aerial medley of fresh scents. Created in the 1980s to subtly interpret
the notion of innocence. This newer classic, and other fragrances by the French
perfumer Annick Goutal, are catching on and have become favorites
of fashion editors. Notes: Brazilian
rosewood, violet, Florentine iris, and lime blossom. In an Essence: A
soft floral with a hint of citrus, very light, and easy to wear. $95.
Bloomingdale’s, Mall of America,
952-883-2500
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Tubereuse Indiana by Creed
This perfume
is part of both the 200-year-old perfume house’s
vintage collection and the Millésime
product line of fragrances, which contain the highest percentage of natural
essences found in the French perfume industry. Notes: Indian
tuberose, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, vanilla, ambergris In an Essence: A
feminine, but not overpowering, floral that’s softened with a hint of
vanilla. $165.
Neiman Marcus,
Mpls., 612-339-2600
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Original Vetiver by Creed
This irresistible men’s cologne is also from Creed’s vintage collection and Millésime line.
But unlike traditional vetiver fragrances, Creed’s version is fresh and
contemporary with deep woodsy notes topped by mandarin, bergamot, and spicy
ginger. Notes:
sandalwood, Florentine iris, musk, vetiver, and ambergris. In an Essence: A
delicious balance of fresh green and sensual wood aromas. $190. Neiman Marcus, Mpls.,
612-339-2600
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Joy by Jean Patou
In
the early 20th century, French designer Jean Patou was known for eradicating the
flapper
look and introducing sportswear for women. His effort to move fashion toward
comfort made him a favorite among wealthy American women. But when the stock
market crashed in 1929, so did the luxury fashion market. The House of Patou
created Joy for American women who couldn’t
afford his clothes. Still, it was called the “costliest
perfume in the world”
by American socialite Elsa Maxwell, combining more than 10,000 jasmine flowers
and twenty-eight dozen Bulgarian roses to make just one ounce. Notes: Jasmine
and Bulgarian rose. In an Essence:
Classic. Sophisticated. Extravagant. $128. Macy’s, Mpls., 612-375-2200
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