The History Buff

City Tours:
Downtown Minneapolis Walking Tour—Begin your downtown tour at circa 1900 City Hall (1), then proceed across what people used to call “the Loop” to the Foshay Tower (2)—the region’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1929—the Medical Arts (3) and Young–Quinlan (4) Buildings on the south end of the Nicollet Mall (5). Then double back along Hennepin Avenue, where the historic Orpheum (6), State (7), and Pantages (8) Theatres have been brought back to their early twentieth-century splendor.  

St. Paul Summit Tour (photos below)—On foot, by car, astride a bike, Minnesota’s best-known and historically important residential street is impressive. Take Larry Millett’s AIA Guide to the Twin Cities along for the ride and learn more about the Governor’s Residence (1), House of Hope Church (2), Fitzgerald’s boyhood home (3), the Burbank–Livingston–Griggs (4) and William Lightner (5) residences, James J. Hill House (6), the Cathedral of St. Paul (7), plus other architectural gems you’ve never heard of.

The River Tour:
The Mississippi River—more specifically, St. Anthony Falls (1)—is why Minneapolis and St. Paul are where they are (as opposed to, say, in Iowa), and they have finally embraced their downtown riverfronts after decades of neglect. In the historic environs of the aforementioned waterfall (now in Minneapolis, but once in St. Paul), a morning’s ramble will give you a whole new appreciation of the city’s past and present. Begin at the superlative Mill City Museum (2)—in the remarkably restored Washburn A Mill—and either walk, bike, skate, or take a Segway “Magical History Tour” along both sides of the Mighty Miss. Cross the river on James J. Hill’s iconic Stone Arch Bridge (3) and enjoy the view of the downtown skyline from one of the outdoor bars along old Main Street (4)—which is especially beautiful at sundown.

Hot Ticket: Story-spinner nonpareil Kevin Kling provides a quick, quirky historical primer in Minneapolis in 19 Minutes Flat, now showing at the Mill City Museum (704 S. 2nd St., 612-341-7555 ).

Hot Ride: Segway tours of the Minneapolis riverfront (952-888-9200).

Dining Out: Hot dining options in the neighborhood include the sleek Spoonriver (5) (750 S. 2nd St., 612-436-2236), the Guthrie’s Cue (6) (612-377-2224), and the elegant Nicollet Island Inn (7) (95 Merriam St., 612-331-1800)

Must Do: This ain’t Boston, folks. The oldest permanent non-native settlement in these parts is not even 200 years old. But history is history, and you can inspect a good chunk of ours at venerable Fort Snelling (Hwys. 5 and 55, 612-726-1171). If you can ignore the nearby freeway buzz and airport traffic, the family will enjoy a couple of interesting hours among architecture and artifacts dating back to the 1820s, when the fort, with its trademark Round Tower, was a solitary frontier outpost high above the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers, surrounded by Ojibwe and Dakota communities. Check out the nearby Henry Sibley House (1357 Sibley Memorial Hwy., Mendota, 651-452-1596 ), Minnesota’s “oldest standing residence,” and St. Peter’s Catholic Church (1405 Hwy. 13, Mendota, 651-452-4550), the state’s house of worship in longest continuous use, both of which date back to early territorial days. If you prefer your regional history indoors—you’re into genealogy or maybe using your vacation to research a biography of Cadwallader Washburn—treat yourself to the Minnesota History Center (345 Kellogg Blvd. W., St. Paul, 651-259-3000). With everything from Native American artifacts and Civil War letters to massive newspaper, photo, and art databases and rotating special exhibits, the architecturally imposing Minnesota Historical Society HQ may become, on second thought, a year-round hangout. If you need a break from the serious stuff, you can buy a slice of state history at the center’s excellent museum shop, and a slice of exceptional pie at its above-average cafeteria.

Best Deal: Every true-blue Minnesotan (and sympathetic Minnesota visitor) owes himself/ herself a day at the Capitol (University Ave. between Dr. Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. and Cedar St., St. Paul 651-296-2881), architect Cass Gilbert’s awe-inspiring white marble monument to representative democracy on the tundra. Even (or maybe especially) when the legislature is not in session, the House and Senate chambers speak of history, and the wide, portrait-lined hallways echo with the business of the people going back more than a century. Guided and self-guided tours are available (trust us—there’s much more here than first meets the eye!), as are a smorgasbord of classes and special events produced by the Minnesota Historical Society. Unless a thunderstorm is raging, you’ll also want to join a group tour of the legendary Quadriga (golden horses) on the roof. And it's all free—if you don’t count your tax dollars at work.