Down by the Riverside: La Crosse, Wisconsin

La Crosse, Wisconsin, rises from the confluence of three rivers—the Mississippi, the La Crosse, and the Black—at a spot where the Ho-Chunks gathered to joust with other native tribes in a game dubbed “lacrosse” by French explorers. But the French moved on. The inspiration to put down roots—or, more accurately, to pull up a few to build a trading post—was left to 18-year-old Nathan Myrick, who, in 1841, was looking to supply the burgeoning riverboat traffic and pioneers plodding westward.

La Crosse is about the same distance southeast of the Twin Cities as Duluth is northeast, and the trip there along the Mississippi is far more scenic, but ask the typical Twin Citian what he or she knows of the place, and the reply is often a blank stare. Pity. This riverside city of 55,000 is flourishing with three colleges and two hospitals driving its economy. “This is the prettiest town on the Mississippi,” a local instructed when I asked for directions. No argument from us.

La Crosse has been voted the best revitalized downtown in Wisconsin and won the Great American Main Street award for its block upon block of historically preserved commercial buildings—96 and counting. Those with a passion for architectural splendor may suffer a crick in the neck—a hazard of ambling down Main Street while gawking at the extravaganza of dentils, oriels, egg-and-dart moldings, Greek pilasters, and miscellaneous curlicues frosting the sturdy brick buildings. Free walking tour brochures are available in every shop.

You will also discover plenty of present-day treasures: art galleries, smart clothing boutiques, antiques shops, coffeehouses, ice cream parlors, and saloons. Lots of saloons, in fact. Even a martini bar, right here in River City.

On the outskirts of town are rolling, wooded bluffs tethered by well-tended trails. More than 100 miles of groomed biking/hiking paths are stitched together along woodsy riverbanks, through the moody mists of marshlands, and over muscle-challenging upward treks. The highlight is Myrick Hixon Eco Park, a dynamic effort to combine the city’s zoo and forest preserve. An hour’s jog through the forest led me there, at the far end of the University of Wisconsin–La Crosse campus.

Look toward the Mississippi and you’ll catch a whiff of Memphis or St. Louis, with paddleboats pulled up to the grand Riverwalk promenade/park, which is dotted with sculptures, fountains, and many a bench for gazing at a colorful sunset. Better yet, take a paddleboat excursion (608-784-2893, lacrossequeen.com) up the Mississippi to spy on herons stalking the banks and eagles swooping overhead (or landing on the ice when they convene in winter in search of open water). Autumn is the season to catch the annual migration of as many as 20,000 white tundra swans.

Those who prefer to get their heart racing by lifting shopping bags have plenty of workout potential in the city’s compact downtown. Here, the vintage brick storefronts house impulse boosters such as Sideboard (509 Main St., 608-784-1340), to outfit your kitchen; Ambiance (115 S. 2nd St., 608-784-5058), which showcases rustic antiques-made-sassy (think farmhouse kitchen chairs in red and yellow, coat racks with hose-faucet knobs); and kick (236 Main St., 608-782-5425), full of impossibly gorgeous shoes, such as the Italian tangerine suede stilettos trimmed in burgundy that called a siren song to me.

A block away, the Pearl Street West enclave of brick storefronts runs the gamut from homemade ice cream and chocolates (best seller: the walking s’more) to a gallery of regional artists and a shop of all things Wisconsin—even your very own cheese-head chapeau (actual cheese is sold here, too). Across the street, a spacious bookstore meant for browsing adjoins Jules’ Coffee House and Wine Bar (325 Pearl St., 608-796-1200).

If recycling is to your liking, the three-story Antiques Center (110 S. 3rd St., 608-782-6533) is the place to score mahjong sets, Bakelite radios, vintage cookie cutters, and fishing lures.

Worked up a thirst? Not a problem in this city. Head for the new Pearl Street Brewery (1401 St. Andrew St., 608-784-4832) for a tour, and taste its Downtown Brown and Pale ales. Or pop into The Wine Guyz (122 King St., 608-782-9463), offering three dozen pours by the glass with upscale snacks to match. And do not leave town without a trip to the uber-retro Starlite Lounge (222 Pearl St., 608-796-2277), with glowing persimmon walls that set off a cache of turquoise leatherette swivel chairs and kidney-shaped tables. This is the place for half-priced happy hour martinis.

Seafood on the glam is the forte of The Waterfront (328 S. Front St., 608-782-5400). If you time it right, you can summon your catfish tempura-style, with grilled asparagus and lemon-caper sauce, while watching boats ply the river. Or step up to the second floor dining room of Piggy’s (501 S. Front St., 608-784-4877) to catch the sunset while dining stylishly on its signature smokehouse fare (from tequila-lime salmon to prime rib) in a tastefully restored 1871 foundry. Piggy’s has a grand wine list, too. While in the neighborhood, pop into the equally historic Pump House (119 King St.) across the street, today a regional art center.

The wine list rocks at the Freight House (107 Vine St., 608-784-6211), built by the Milwaukee Road in 1885 and today delivering he-man portions of prime rib and crab legs in a timbered setting. Another swell railroad site recycled as a dining destination is the Train Station (601 St. Andrew St., 608-781-0005), where Amtrak still pulls up. The eatery is justly proud of its hickory-smoked ribs and pulled-pork platters, which are all the better with a brew from Pearl Street Brewery.

One last hint: Digger’s Sting (122 N. 3rd St., 608-782-3796) is the kind of hangout locals like to keep a secret—a supper club from the glory days, where murky lighting, red flocked wallpaper, Frankie on the sound system, and bottles of Riunite cement its status. Red meat rules here—no surprise. Not to worry: There’s also a very nice pinot noir on the wine list.

Many of the bars and cafes offer live music. And check out what’s going on at the leafy campus of Viterbo University, which hosts the La Crosse Symphony Orchestra’s performances.

Fall is festival time in La Crosse. Among the many events are its much-awarded Oktoberfest. The Rotary Holiday Light Spectacular, from Thanksgiving through December, boasts 2.4 million lights strung along the river. Old-Fashioned Christmas, hosted by Norskedalen Nature and Heritage Center (608-452-3424), about 15 miles southeast of town, offers the allure of a 19th-century Norwegian village with music, storytelling, lefse baking, wreath-making demos, and, of course, enough Norwegian food to last you through the winter.