The Call of the Grape

A glass of wine can be good for your heart, science offers. Sipping it in the company of its maker is good for the spirit as well. And making a day’s excursion to the winery hits the trifecta. You can do it without a plane ticket.

The Twin Cities lies on the same line of latitude as Bordeaux and just south of Germany’s Rheingau—in other words, fine Minnesota wines shouldn’t seem so out of context. But our earlier frosts and long winters mean shorter growing seasons, so grapes must be chosen with more care. Winter-hardy is our mantra.

Grapes take a beating in this climate. To survive, most have been genetically altered (most often at the University of Minnesota). Though some distinctive and pleasant wines have emerged from our area, they rarely receive national attention. A trip to a regional winery is best thought of as a fun day out—with wine, scenic vistas, picnic areas, and frequent festivities to enhance the experience.

The prominent regionally grown red grapes are Marechal Foch—a French–American hybrid—which produces a wine with a soft character; Frontenac—developed by the U of M—which produces our most ubiquitous local varietal, a medium-bodied wine with a pronounced cherry flavor; and St. Croix—a hybrid developed by former U of M horticulturalist Elmer Swenson—which produces a medium-bodied, fruity wine. Common white grapes are Seyval—a French-American hybrid—which makes a clean, crisp, wine; St. Pepin—a Swenson hybrid— which makes a very fruity, grapey wine; and LaCrosse— yet another Swenson hybrid—which produces a dry, oak-aged varietal that’s becoming ever more popular. All regional wineries import substantial percentages of grapes or juice for blending with locally grown stock. Ask, if it matters to you.

The more expensive local wines tasted best to me, but not many are pricey by global standards. These are my picks for good wine and a pleasant outing—contact the winery or check its website to verify hours and tasting policies.

Chateau St Croix Winery & Vineyard
Troy and Laura Chamberlin had visited scores of chateaux wineries while stationed in Europe, and then came home and built one.

Chateau St Croix, which opened in 2004 on fifty-five acres north of St. Croix Falls, is modeled after a grand European estate. Griffins perch atop gateposts, lion sculptures guard the fountains, suits of armor oversee the baronial tasting room. Tours begin in a gallery clad in white Italian marble, overlooking walking trails, a fishing pond with paddleboats, and meadows where horses graze. Visitors tour a cellar lined with oak barrels.

The winery produces an array of familiar varietals, from an unoaked Chardonnay to Pinot grigio to Californian-style Cabernet and Zinfandel. (I particularly enjoyed the Cab.) Most on-site vines have not yet reached maturity.

As in Europe, the winery is a family affair, where work and life intermingle and guests are encouraged to linger. “There’s always something going on,” says Laura. Events include the Fall Harvest Festival and grape stomp, Polocrosse tournaments, and artisan visits.

WineHaven
After forty years of producing honey and fruit on his land outside Chisago City, Kevin Peterson listened to his inner Bacchus and turned winemaker. With skills honed through classes at Cornell and Purdue universities and Elmer Swenson’s help, he established a vineyard in 1992 and bottled his first vintages in 1995. Today, WineHaven annually produces more than 5,000 gallons of wines (Riesling is the best-selling; Marechal Foch is my favorite), spanning nearly a dozen varieties. It has snagged more than eighty international medals.

You might forget for a minute you’re not in Sonoma. Row upon row of well-tended vines surround the winery, where a patio with a wine press and vintage barrels set the scene. “There’s always a family member in the tasting room,” Peterson says.

Tours are offered during frequent special events, from March’s Cabin Fever Day to September’s harvest tour. The madly popular Rhubarb Frenzy, held each August, draws crowds for gourmet food and fiddle music. 9757 292nd St., Chisago City, 651-257-1017