The Call of the Grape

Cannon River Winery
No one’s ever admonished Maureen and John Maloney for lack of imagination. The Cannon Falls winery they opened in 2004 was a long-vacant Chevy dealership, but proximate to vines they’d been planting.

Today it gleams with oak barrels and tanks of stainless steel, all under the domain of winemaker Vincent Negret. Together, the Maloneys and Negret bottled 2,100 cases last season. “We’re big on blending,” says John, whose personal favorite, the Mill Street Red, mirrors a Bordeaux. Cannon River emphasizes locally hardy grapes, producing a variety of balanced red and white wines. Try the red-blend Meritage or white St. Pepin.

Blending also characterizes the gorgeous winery itself, which is dressed in antiques scavenged by Maureen that range from a tasting bar that once dominated a saloon to John’s father’s vintage fishing boat, now topped with glass to serve as a table. John labored over the intricate tongue-and-groove flooring fashioned from black walnut from the nearby vineyard, and it’s the highlight of the Reserve Room, used for wine classes and tasting parties.

There’s a boutique and demo kitchen, where guest chefs host lessons and dinners, and a stage for live music that accompanies frequent events, such as April’s wine-release party. 421 Mill St., Cannon Falls, 507-263-7400

Northern Vineyards
Established almost a quarter of a century ago, Northern Vineyards Winery is owned by members of the Minnesota Winegrowers Cooperative, whose vineyards are scattered throughout Minnesota and western Wisconsin. The co-op specializes in varietals produced from white grapes—such as Edelweiss, St. Pepin, and LaCrosse—created by Elmer Swenson, who devoted a lifetime to breeding hardy stock. It also produces full-bodied red wines from the St. Croix grape, as well as the newer red varietal, Frontenac. Chardonnay, Pinot gris, and Gewurtztraminer from European grapes also show up.

The winery, on Stillwater’s main drag, satisfies skeptics by lining up its awards behind the tasting counter. Best-selling labels are Oktoberfest, Lady Slipper, and St. Croix Reserve, according to manager Cassie Pittman, who assists the winemaker in production of 50,000 bottles a year. “It’s handmade, hands-on. We don’t own much machinery,” Pittman says, as she leads a tour of the wine press and vat, where grapes are sometimes stomped.

Guests are welcome to enjoy picnics on the sunny deck. Tours are offered Saturdays, with live music in the summer. 223 N. Main St., Stillwater, 651-430-1032

Saint Croix Vineyards
The setting’s straight out of Sideways: a rustic, century-old country barn restored as a tasting room, surrounded by camera-ready vineyards carpeting gently rolling hills. It’s owned by vintners Paul Quast and Peter Hemstad, a former grape breeder for the University of Minnesota—jokingly canonized as St. Croix’s “St. Peter” for developing the Frontenac, La Crescent, and Frontenac gris grapes.

The winery offers a variety of reds and whites made from U of M—developed grapes (I liked the Frontenac and Marechal Foch). But it also has Chardonnay.  

Wine bins share space with gift items near the tasting bar, where explanations and food-pairing hints enhance the samples. Expect the place to be crowded in fall, whether it’s due to  the popular September grape stomp or its proximity to Aamodt’s Apple Farm. The highly recommended vineyard tours are offered by appointment only and can be paired with a wine-fruit-and-cheese tasting. 6428 Manning Ave., Stillwater, 651-430-3310, scvwines.com