The Sound of Silence

Remember when Club Med was called the antidote for civilization? No phones, no TVs, not even a clock in the room. You went to unwind. Now techno blasts out across the beach and at times it’s impossible to order a drink at the bar without getting pulled into a foam party. After a week of vacation, you need to take time off to recover.

Too many times what we need when we travel is a quiet retreat to shake off stress and recharge our batteries. The ultimate expression of that philosophy is Canoe Bay, a charming little collection of cottages and rooms that make up a world-class Relais & Châteaux establishment ninety minutes northeast of the Twin Cities.  

After a long workweek, my husband and I headed out for two nights of absolute nothing. Canoe Bay is committed to privacy and doesn’t even have any road signs, so it was completely necessary to follow the specific directions sent to us. After passing winding rural roads and dirt paths, we turned into the resort and were greeted by a simple, serene waterfall flowing in front of the reception building.

Canoe Bay is meant for couples, but not in a cheesy Sandals kind of way. It’s very romantic and secluded with lots of handholding and whispering—and children and pets are strictly not welcome. There are no in-room phones and cell reception is spotty, inducing immediate ring-tone-free relaxation.

The property once served as a camp and was owned by the Seventh-day Adventist Church of Wisconsin. After the church council built a new facility, the camp was abandoned. Until, that is, Dan (who grew up in the area) and Lisa Dobrowolski bought it and named it Canoe Bay, a moniker found on an old map of the property.

The modest campus has a refined yet rustic feel to it. Cedar cabins sprawl about the hills with roads and paths connecting twenty-one lodgings, which include a main lodge, duplex cottages, and standalone cottages. Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie School style is well suited to the surrounding landscape, and the Dobrowolskis commissioned his protégé, John Rattenbury, to design two cabins. The Rattenbury Cottage is dramatic with cathedral ceilings and a cantilevered deck with a view of the lake; the Edgewood, built in 2003, is a stunning 2,100-square-foot cabin with a 1,400-square-foot wraparound porch.

We stayed in Lookout, one of the newest lodgings, which stands tall above the others with great views of the lake. Once we stepped inside, it was clear we weren’t roughing it. A lofty ceiling canopied above a large stone fireplace, a love seat, breakfast nook, and fluffy bed all facing huge picture windows overlooking the lake. The bathroom was gleaming with an oversized natural stone shower and a whirlpool bath. Ice was in the fridge to chill our Champagne, and organic fruit was left out for a snack. Out on our private deck, it was serene with only the sounds of birds and canoe paddles on the lake. We popped in some Stan Getz and Jack Johnson—there’s a TV, CD, and DVD player in every room, plus movies, music, and games in the lobby—and took in the view until dinner.

At night, Canoe Bay becomes incredibly romantic, almost magical. The driveways are lined with lanterns and spiraled white lights hang in the trees. They twinkle out onto the lake, and even the bridges are lit up.

Inside the dining room, it’s a bit like being in a boat with sloping cedar beams. Every table is dressed with fresh flowers and a glass candle floater that casts such a pretty glow we had to purchase one before we left. The dinner menu changes daily, but always emphasizes local ingredients, right down to the herbs from the garden out front. Chef Scott Johnson will chat with foodies about his seasonal fare and even take interested guests out on his shopping excursions at no charge. (Such outings are not regularly scheduled, but guests can inquire ahead of time and get a map with directions as to where ingredients come from.) On our night, we had pork in an apple glaze followed by a berry tart and chocolates served in a tiny canoe.

Lisa Dobrowolski moonlights as the sommelier and helped us navigate the extensive list. No hard liquor is served, but one couple brought their own fixings and shook up a martini before dinner. The entire resort is smoke-free; candles, other open flames, and cooking are not allowed in the guest cottages. (The Edgewood has a gourmet kitchen, but the house chef must be hired to use it.) This means the dining room is often full. It also has a formal air—men must wear sport coats, and everyone talks quietly.

What we really loved were the other two meals delivered to our room, where we ate on our little deck in the sun. With a quick knock on the door, breakfast was delivered on an adorable wooden tray. Housekeeping and the entire service staff were nearly invisible—adding to the experience of being in our own wooded paradise. We sat sipping hot coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice, enjoying homemade rolls and muffins. Such basics are complimentary, but there are optional items for purchase, including eggs, lox, and a bottle of bubbly Cristal. Lunch was even better. We chose sandwiches—a ham with cheddar cheese and a turkey and cranberry with sage aioli on homemade breads. They were dropped off in brown bags along with sparkling juice, cranberry-oatmeal-chocolate chip cookies, fruit, and side salads with a wedge of delicious, creamy cheese.

Pulling ourselves off the deck, we attempted a long hike, but the ticks were in full force, making the lush area a little less attractive. Instead, we ditched the idea and took a cruise around Lake Wahdoon. The boathouse is stocked with canoes and kayaks, and a spin around the lake takes about twenty minutes. In the winter, there’s snowshoeing on the trails and frozen lakes, but every room has a fireplace and seems made for hibernation.

Summer and fall afternoons are spent lounging on decks or lying on docks reading, nibbling regional cheese plates, and sipping wine. Those who just can’t sit still head to the workout room or nearby golf courses, while others get in-room massages. Inside the lodge is a fantastic library lined with books on every subject. Couches and fireplaces fill the center of the room, French doors open up to a lakefront sitting area, and a loft provides more reading room. It’s all so cozy that I’d love to come back during a snowstorm and delve into a good novel.

I spent my last morning reading out in an Adirondack chair by the lodge—sad to be headed back to the land of e-mail and traffic, but also ready and recharged. I looked up from my book and watched as a new group of guests arrived. Two couples headed to the lake, and one woman jumped right in, squealing at the chill. It was the most noise I’d heard in days. She finally convinced her companion to jump in too, and he screamed, “It’s so refreshing!” I laughed and thought, Yes, it certainly is. 

Canoe Bay Practicalities Rates range from $325 to $1,800—add $50 per night for fall-color weekends. A two-night minimum is required for Friday or Saturday arrivals. In the dining room, the chef’s menu is $130 per couple. Another option is a wine dinner in the private wine cellar for $220 per couple. The restaurant is closed on Tuesdays. Chetek, Wisconsin,  715-924-4594   Larsmont Cottages: A Fresh Breeze on Lake Superior Although Canoe Bay will likely long reign as the luxury leader in regional travel, a new entrant debuted this summer. Larsmont Cottages sits on the shores of Lake Superior on the Duluth side of Two Harbors, at the tiny hamlet of Larsmont. Like Canoe Bay, it’s a modern-day iteration of the lakeside resort. Unlike Canoe Bay, it’s geared to families as well as couples. As such, it’s far and away the most upscale, tasteful, amenity-laden retreat on the North Shore, or even northern Minnesota. Your kids won’t forget the ice cream cones. The campus consists of forty-plus “cottages,” most with two or three bedrooms that can also be rented as several separate lodgings. Options range from a basic room with a bath to a luxury cottage with a living room, fireplace, contemporary kitchen, patio, and lake views. The décor is tasteful and comfortable with high-grade appliances and lots of amenities—and few of the up-north clichés (plaid furniture, knotty pine paneling, brown pile carpeting) you’ve come to dread. There are also bikes, kayaks, and canoes for guests, a restaurant of some ambition (perhaps more than necessary), a large indoor pool, outdoor hot tub, massage cottage, and a large main lodge for gathering. Service is friendly and generally on the mark. Larsmont Cottages is open year-round, and rates are highest on weekends and in peak months. A guest room with a bath costs as little as $80 in the off-season, midweek, but peak weekends in a two-bedroom cottage with all the candy will run you $360 a night. Yeah, it’s spendy for up north, but Larsmont Cottages delivers on the promise.  —Adam Platt 596 Larsmont Way, Two Harbors, 866-687-5634