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Travel

All Play and No Work

All Play and No Work
Photo courtesy of Paul Stafford/MOT
Skiing the Banadad Trail, which connects the lower and upper trail systems in the Gunflint region.

A lodge-to-lodge adventure is the best way to experience the Arrowhead on skis.

December 2006

By Greg Breining

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TOP SKI STOPS

North Shore
>> Cascade River State Park flanks the dramatic and precipitous gorge of its namesake river. The park serves up seventeen miles of cross-country ski trails that range from scenic-but-easy routes to black-diamond screamers bombing down out of Superior Highlands. Warm up around the wood stove in the year-round trail center.
>> Lutsen Resort, located where the Poplar River empties into Lake Superior, is another of the North Shore’s grand traditional lodges. Most impressive is the main dining room supported by massive square-hewn timbers and finished in varnished pine. Warm up after a day’s skiing in the pool, whirlpool, or sauna.
>> Bluefin Bay impresses by the sheer beauty of its location, perched on the edge of Lake Superior in Tofte, a one-time fishing village that has become a center for condos and tourism.  Bluefin has two saunas, and its lakeside vacation homes have fireplaces and private decks.
>> The Sugarbush Trail network winds across the hills along the Sawbill Trail and Onion River. There are plenty of loops of varying difficulty, from easy to killer.

Gunflint Trail
>> Poplar Creek Guesthouse, run by Boundary Country Trekking, sits on a glacial ridge overlooking Poplar Lake and Creek. Warm up in the whirlpool before making dinner in the housekeeping suite.
>> Bearskin Lodge is one of the Gunflint’s best-known resorts. Overlooking East Bearskin Lake, the lodge has been updated with a hot tub and sauna (but, unfortunately, no restaurant).
>> Gunflint Lodge, built on the shore of its namesake lake in 1927, is another area landmark. Justine’s restaurant was named for the late matriarch of the place. The Red Paddle Bistro just opened for lighter fare.
>> If you’re looking for more rugged travel, arrange a Yurt to Yurt expedition. “Hut hosts” warm up the round Mongolian– style tents before your arrival. They also tend to cooking and camp chores.


SKI PRACTICALITIES

Make bookings for lodge-to-lodge skiing through Boundary Country Trekking (800-322-8327). Your hosts transport your luggage to your next overnight stop while you ski. Gunflint prices include breakfast, trail lunch, and car and luggage shuttles. North Shore packages are not offered on weekends and winter holidays. The season runs from December through March. Prices vary based on the grade of lodging chosen.


 

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