San Diego This Winter?

FOR THE GOLFER/SUN SEEKER
Excluding Torrey Pines, the area’s best golf courses and resorts reside in the so-called “North County,” near the communities of Oceanside and Carlsbad, the latter of which offers a charming, quasi-rural feel, though suburban development is beyond every hilltop. The coastal influences are not felt here, meaning there’s little fog and the winter temperatures are well above the coastal standard. If you’re looking for a spa-and-sun vacation, with some golfing, a little shopping, and a lot of relaxing, I’d head here, understanding that San Diego is neither proximate nor convenient.

There are two impeccable resort choices in these parts. The modern Four Seasons Aviara offers the typical FS amenities and high standards of service and also has one of the legendary chain’s best links—an eighteen-hole Arnold Palmer course. Nearby, the historic La Costa Resort has been thoroughly renovated since the days when my grandparents traveled there to diet, of all things. It boasts two PGA courses, a championship tennis facility, and a spa, co-managed by the Chopra Center, with a unique array of medical and mind/ body therapies. The resort’s Spanish– style accommodations are slightly more minimalist and modern than the lush, traditional Four Seasons’. 760-603-6800, 800-854-5000

If you’re here in summer, the nearby Del Mar Thoroughbred Club offers seven weeks of the closest thing in the United States to an English horseracing experience. Opening day in July is the city’s social event of the summer. North of here, but still south of the resorts, is the suburb of Solana Beach. Its Cedros Design District has several blocks of stores catering to home-and-garden–decorating aficionados and is well worth an afternoon. 858-755-1141

FOR THE URBANITE
The city’s bustling downtown, though not without seedy pockets, is alive and vibrant, packed with stylish nightspots and urbane boutique hotels. I stayed at Kimpton’s Hotel Solamar, a delightful facility with a hip vibe, a great terrace pool with a lively bar, and quirky yet comfortable rooms. It’s convenient to the burgeoning East Village District and the city’s “trolley” light-rail line, making it an unbeatable choice. Don’t miss a meal at nearby Cafe Chloe, an all-day French spot with great small plates and a fun atmosphere. 877-230-0300, 619-232-3242

Downtown will occupy you for only so long, so head to Balboa Park, the city’s showpiece, studded with Spanish-style buildings dating from the city’s 1915 exposition celebrating the opening of the Panama Canal. Today, it houses the San Diego Zoo as well as the city’s most renowned museums, including the San Diego Museum of Art and the Museum of Photographic Arts, among many other options. Don’t miss lunch or dinner at The Prado at Balboa Park, serving eclectic, Latin-tinged California cuisine on a wonderful outdoor patio. Shoppers should visit the adjacent Spanish Village Art Center, home to thirty-plus tile-roofed galleries and studios, where artisans create original works. 619-239-0512

Although I am generally neither a fan of B & Bs nor Victoriana, I can’t say enough nice things about the Britt Scripps Inn. On a residential street just steps from the park, the fully redone Victorian provides a luxury hotel experience on a small scale that includes central air, full and delicious breakfasts, and afternoon wine and nibbles. My only qualms were an awkward system for guest parking and the occasional difficulty of finding inn staff. The nearby Hash House A Go Go is a fun, informal stop where you can get enormous portions of heartland fare at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 888-881-1991, 619-298-4646

Finally, if you’re interested in a bit of wild California while still in the city, drive past the airport to Point Loma and the Cabrillo National Monument, which connotes the first European visit to the region by Spanish explorer Juan Cabrillo in 1542. This windy, rugged spot overlooking the city is the starting point for the Bayside Trail, a two-plus-mile cliff-side path that rambles past everything from fragrant coastal sage and historic lighthouses to cacti and lizards. 619-557-5450