Sun Valley

If you judge by buzz, southwest Florida, Orlando, and Las Vegas have overtaken the Phoenix area as Twin Citians’ preferred winter vacation getaways. Naples is reliably warm, kids love Orlando, and Vegas is, well, singular. Since the days when Phoenix was the only winter vacation in the West worth considering, the area has matured into a large, vibrant metropolis where people live year-round.

Prior to several visits over recent years, and in all seasons, I wondered whether that evolution had diminished or enhanced the region’s appeal as a getaway. I’ve concluded that in comparison with Vegas, Tucson, Palm Springs, and San Diego, the Phoenix area is a more complete package for resort-seeking vacationers who can live without Celine Dion.

The region’s sprawling growth means that when you come to Phoenix, you’ll probably vacation in one of its suburbs—probably Scottsdale, the massive north-south–oriented community abutting Phoenix’s eastern flanks. Scottsdale is so large that it has a sizeable downtown, its own peripheral malls, a few seedy stretches, and even bits of desert here and there. It is home or central to most of the area’s best resorts, restaurants, attractions, and shopping. And it is close enough to central Phoenix to make a rainy-day excursion to a museum, sporting event, or restaurant plausible.

Here’s my guide to making the most of a trip to the region:

Where to Stay
There’s no shortage of incredible resorts in the area, so where you stay is a question of the type of ambiance you want. These three suit a diverse range of sensibilities.

The pick of the litter for families is the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa in north Scottsdale. Just four years old, and built with an aesthetic that evokes the West’s historic resorts, the Westin is neither the region’s luxury leader nor its best value, but rarely have I been somewhere that caters so well to families. I stayed in its “villas” complex, home to lovely, well-equipped multi-bedroom suites with full kitchens, fireplaces, and large bathrooms. The villas have their own workout facility, café, and pools, though guests have full access to the resort’s spa, river pools, golf, and restaurants. There are all the expected amenities—a kids’ club, playgrounds, and lots of restaurants—as well as special touches—zoo excursions, pie-eating contests, and nightly s’mores at an outdoor hearth, to name a few. The resort is adjacent to Kierland Commons, a high-end outdoor shopping center similar to Arbor Lakes and as pleasant as any in America. 6902 Greenway Pkwy. E., Scottsdale, 480-624-1000

The most impressive small resort I’ve visited in the area is Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain, a massive redo of the former John Gardiner Tennis Ranch. Its stunning location on the side of Camelback Mountain guarantees guests unparalleled vistas of Paradise Valley. The rooms are in small casita buildings, decorated in a minimalist but warm contemporary fashion. There is an elaborate and serene spa, excellent tennis facilities, and an elegant restaurant, elements, helmed by chef Beau MacMillan, one of the few challengers to defeat an Iron Chef on the Food Network. Condé Nast Traveler named Sanctuary the top resort in the continental United States last year, while Gourmet put elements on its list of 100 best U.S. restaurants. Sanctuary is a marvelous choice for adults looking for stylish comfort without pretension. 5700 McDonald Ave. E., Paradise Valley, 480-607-2100

An offbeat choice for those wishing to be in the heart of Scottsdale’s action is the Hotel Valley Ho, a 1956 hotel that catered to celebrities before falling upon hard times. With a courtyard pool at its center, the reinvigorated Valley Ho integrates the best of modern and midcentury design with style and a sense of fun. It’s a midpriced option within walking distance of downtown Scottsdale’s shops and restaurants. 6850 E. Main St., Scottsdale, 480-248-2000 What to Do
Scottsdale’s shining light is Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, his winter home and teaching complex on 600 acres of Sonoran (now suburban) Desert. After years of renovation, Wright’s home is open to visitors for the first time, as are his student living quarters and outdoor living spaces. Wright’s “organic architecture” is as integrated into the desert landscape here as it is at Taliesin in the hill country of southwest Wisconsin. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide, so taking one of the numerous tours is the only way to see the place. 12621 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-860-2700

In Phoenix proper, take a spin through the amazing Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa. It opened in 1929, a decade before Wright established Taliesin West, and evokes a similar architectural sensibility, but is a different style entirely. (Wright was not the Biltmore’s architect, but a primary consultant, and some believe his presence in Phoenix during its construction seeded his love of the desert, which led to Taliesin West’s creation.) The resort sits on a modest thirty-nine acres and is open to the public. Experience its elegant skylights, decorative wrought iron, numerous fountains, and beautiful landscaping. 2400 Missouri Ave. E., Phoenix, 800-950-0086

The payoff to kids who troop through Wright’s landmarks with a minimum of whining is Crackerjax, an entertainment complex of a Chuck E. Cheese–like gaming palace (worth skipping) married to an outdoor agglomeration of minigolf (two courses), go-cart racing, bumper boats, and batting cages. So long as you stay outdoors, it’s a win-win proposition. 16001 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-998-2800

The Desert Botanical Garden, on the border between Scottsdale and Phoenix, works for all ages. Though not as large as Tucson’s, and too close to the airport to feel isolated, this place for conservation and education showcases the ecology of the Sonoran Desert in which Phoenix sits. From hummingbirds and reptiles to flowering plants, it’s not all cacti, especially in winter and spring. 1201 Galvin Pkwy. N., Phoenix, 480-941-1225

In downtown Phoenix, the region’s cultural jewel is the Heard Museum. It houses the best collection of Native American art and cultural matter in the world, with a focus on both historic and contemporary expressions. The Heard has a satellite branch in extreme northern Scottsdale, but it’s not much closer to central Scottsdale than the main museum. Both locations have shops considered among the premier sources in the Southwest for high-quality goods purchased directly from Native artisans. 2301 Central Ave. N., Phoenix, 602-252-8848; 34505 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-488-9817

While downtown, visit the Burton Barr Central Library, a mile south of the Heard. Milwaukee–born architect Will Bruder’s copper-and-glass complex evokes the Arizona desert landscape, but is filled with modern touches, including glass walls and a steel ceiling suspended over the largest reading room on the continent. 1221 Central Ave. N., Phoenix, 602-262-4636

Where to Shop
Scottsdale has plenty of retail, due to its well-heeled tourists and population of affluent retirees. The Main Street Arts District is a charming downtown stretch of galleries and antiques shops with strengths in regional and Native American goods, but not limited to those. Bounded by Main St., 1st Ave., Scottsdale Rd. & 69th St.

Scottsdale Fashion Square, an enclosed mall with a retractable roof, has 225 shops, many of which would be home at the Galleria, including Neiman Marcus, Gucci, Tiffany, and Saks. Scottsdale & Camelback Rds., Scottsdale, 480-941-2140

The Shops at Gainey Village is a strip mall, but in the way that truffles are fungi, meaning the cream of the crop’s here. This is Scottsdale’s Galleria, consisting of upscale boutiques, home-furnishings emporia, and stylish restaurants. 8787 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-458-8064

Kierland Commons, an open-air “lifestyle center,” is adjacent to the Westin Kierland and home to seventy national retailers and some of the city’s better restaurants. A big Barnes & Noble and Crate & Barrel anchor the complex, and office and residential spaces above the stores create an in-town feeling that’s absent in most of spread-out, car-oriented Scottsdale. Scottsdale Rd. at Greenway Pkwy., Scottsdale, 480-348-1577

Where to Eat
Scottsdale and its environs boast a surprisingly inventive dining scene with an array of modern and traditional options. Some of my favorites include Zinc Bistro, a reasonably exacting and fun French bistro (Kierland Commons, 480-603-0922); Sauce, a counter-service, thin-crust pizza and salad concept with locations throughout Arizona (14418 Scottsdale Rd. N., 480-321-8800); Cafe Zuzu, a fun and delicious American comfort food restaurant in the Hotel Valley Ho (6850 E. Main St., 480-248-2000); Los Sombreros, an atmospheric regional Mexican restaurant with a gorgeous courtyard (2534 Scottsdale Rd. N., 480-994-1799); and Roaring Fork, an upscale faux-rustic eatery specializing in modern and inventive western takes on meat and fish (4800 Scottsdale Rd. N., 480-947-0795 ).

In Phoenix, my picks are Delux, a winning high-end burger emporium with a huge beer selection (3146 Camelback Rd. E., 602-522-2288); Honey Bear’s BBQ—tasty down-home Tennessee–style ’cue near the Desert Botanical Garden (3012 E. Van Buren St., 602-273-9148); and, in downtown’s Heritage Square, Pizzeria Bianco, regarded by many as serving the best wood-fired pizza in America. Prepare for long waits and limited hours (623 E. Adams St., 602-258-8300). 

Travel Strategies When to Go: Summer is blast-furnace hot (and it’s occasionally humid in July and August), and the dead of winter can be nippy, but late fall and February through May are ideal—desert-dry and temperate. Getting There: Nonstop flights on Northwest, Sun Country, and US Airways abound. Fares are variable, but if you plan well, you can book tickets for $300 or less roundtrip. Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport is spread out and a mess to navigate with a rental car, so allow for extra time. Being There: A car is essential because distances between attractions are great. The city is crisscrossed by a plethora of new, glass-smooth freeways, which are delightful to drive. Traffic is often heavy, but not crushing. Learning More: Fodor’s Arizona & the Grand Canyon 2007 was my bible on a recent trip and did not fail me. Scottsdale Convention and Visitors Bureau is big and well- staffed, and its website is useful (800-782-1117). It has satellite locations at Fashion Square and Kierland Commons. The Greater Phoenix CVB has a broader geographical perspective and many free visitor guides (877-225-5749), with locations downtown and near the Arizona Biltmore.