Sun Valley

If you judge by buzz, southwest Florida, Orlando, and Las Vegas have overtaken the Phoenix area as Twin Citians’ preferred winter vacation getaways. Naples is reliably warm, kids love Orlando, and Vegas is, well, singular. Since the days when Phoenix was the only winter vacation in the West worth considering, the area has matured into a large, vibrant metropolis where people live year-round.

Prior to several visits over recent years, and in all seasons, I wondered whether that evolution had diminished or enhanced the region’s appeal as a getaway. I’ve concluded that in comparison with Vegas, Tucson, Palm Springs, and San Diego, the Phoenix area is a more complete package for resort-seeking vacationers who can live without Celine Dion.

The region’s sprawling growth means that when you come to Phoenix, you’ll probably vacation in one of its suburbs—probably Scottsdale, the massive north-south–oriented community abutting Phoenix’s eastern flanks. Scottsdale is so large that it has a sizeable downtown, its own peripheral malls, a few seedy stretches, and even bits of desert here and there. It is home or central to most of the area’s best resorts, restaurants, attractions, and shopping. And it is close enough to central Phoenix to make a rainy-day excursion to a museum, sporting event, or restaurant plausible.

Here’s my guide to making the most of a trip to the region:

Where to Stay
There’s no shortage of incredible resorts in the area, so where you stay is a question of the type of ambiance you want. These three suit a diverse range of sensibilities.

The pick of the litter for families is the Westin Kierland Resort & Spa in north Scottsdale. Just four years old, and built with an aesthetic that evokes the West’s historic resorts, the Westin is neither the region’s luxury leader nor its best value, but rarely have I been somewhere that caters so well to families. I stayed in its “villas” complex, home to lovely, well-equipped multi-bedroom suites with full kitchens, fireplaces, and large bathrooms. The villas have their own workout facility, café, and pools, though guests have full access to the resort’s spa, river pools, golf, and restaurants. There are all the expected amenities—a kids’ club, playgrounds, and lots of restaurants—as well as special touches—zoo excursions, pie-eating contests, and nightly s’mores at an outdoor hearth, to name a few. The resort is adjacent to Kierland Commons, a high-end outdoor shopping center similar to Arbor Lakes and as pleasant as any in America. 6902 Greenway Pkwy. E., Scottsdale, 480-624-1000

The most impressive small resort I’ve visited in the area is Sanctuary on Camelback Mountain, a massive redo of the former John Gardiner Tennis Ranch. Its stunning location on the side of Camelback Mountain guarantees guests unparalleled vistas of Paradise Valley. The rooms are in small casita buildings, decorated in a minimalist but warm contemporary fashion. There is an elaborate and serene spa, excellent tennis facilities, and an elegant restaurant, elements, helmed by chef Beau MacMillan, one of the few challengers to defeat an Iron Chef on the Food Network. Condé Nast Traveler named Sanctuary the top resort in the continental United States last year, while Gourmet put elements on its list of 100 best U.S. restaurants. Sanctuary is a marvelous choice for adults looking for stylish comfort without pretension. 5700 McDonald Ave. E., Paradise Valley, 480-607-2100

An offbeat choice for those wishing to be in the heart of Scottsdale’s action is the Hotel Valley Ho, a 1956 hotel that catered to celebrities before falling upon hard times. With a courtyard pool at its center, the reinvigorated Valley Ho integrates the best of modern and midcentury design with style and a sense of fun. It’s a midpriced option within walking distance of downtown Scottsdale’s shops and restaurants. 6850 E. Main St., Scottsdale, 480-248-2000