Sun Valley

What to Do
Scottsdale’s shining light is Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West, his winter home and teaching complex on 600 acres of Sonoran (now suburban) Desert. After years of renovation, Wright’s home is open to visitors for the first time, as are his student living quarters and outdoor living spaces. Wright’s “organic architecture” is as integrated into the desert landscape here as it is at Taliesin in the hill country of southwest Wisconsin. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide, so taking one of the numerous tours is the only way to see the place. 12621 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-860-2700

In Phoenix proper, take a spin through the amazing Arizona Biltmore Resort & Spa. It opened in 1929, a decade before Wright established Taliesin West, and evokes a similar architectural sensibility, but is a different style entirely. (Wright was not the Biltmore’s architect, but a primary consultant, and some believe his presence in Phoenix during its construction seeded his love of the desert, which led to Taliesin West’s creation.) The resort sits on a modest thirty-nine acres and is open to the public. Experience its elegant skylights, decorative wrought iron, numerous fountains, and beautiful landscaping. 2400 Missouri Ave. E., Phoenix, 800-950-0086

The payoff to kids who troop through Wright’s landmarks with a minimum of whining is Crackerjax, an entertainment complex of a Chuck E. Cheese–like gaming palace (worth skipping) married to an outdoor agglomeration of minigolf (two courses), go-cart racing, bumper boats, and batting cages. So long as you stay outdoors, it’s a win-win proposition. 16001 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-998-2800

The Desert Botanical Garden, on the border between Scottsdale and Phoenix, works for all ages. Though not as large as Tucson’s, and too close to the airport to feel isolated, this place for conservation and education showcases the ecology of the Sonoran Desert in which Phoenix sits. From hummingbirds and reptiles to flowering plants, it’s not all cacti, especially in winter and spring. 1201 Galvin Pkwy. N., Phoenix, 480-941-1225

In downtown Phoenix, the region’s cultural jewel is the Heard Museum. It houses the best collection of Native American art and cultural matter in the world, with a focus on both historic and contemporary expressions. The Heard has a satellite branch in extreme northern Scottsdale, but it’s not much closer to central Scottsdale than the main museum. Both locations have shops considered among the premier sources in the Southwest for high-quality goods purchased directly from Native artisans. 2301 Central Ave. N., Phoenix, 602-252-8848; 34505 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-488-9817

While downtown, visit the Burton Barr Central Library, a mile south of the Heard. Milwaukee–born architect Will Bruder’s copper-and-glass complex evokes the Arizona desert landscape, but is filled with modern touches, including glass walls and a steel ceiling suspended over the largest reading room on the continent. 1221 Central Ave. N., Phoenix, 602-262-4636

Where to Shop
Scottsdale has plenty of retail, due to its well-heeled tourists and population of affluent retirees. The Main Street Arts District is a charming downtown stretch of galleries and antiques shops with strengths in regional and Native American goods, but not limited to those. Bounded by Main St., 1st Ave., Scottsdale Rd. & 69th St.

Scottsdale Fashion Square, an enclosed mall with a retractable roof, has 225 shops, many of which would be home at the Galleria, including Neiman Marcus, Gucci, Tiffany, and Saks. Scottsdale & Camelback Rds., Scottsdale, 480-941-2140

The Shops at Gainey Village is a strip mall, but in the way that truffles are fungi, meaning the cream of the crop’s here. This is Scottsdale’s Galleria, consisting of upscale boutiques, home-furnishings emporia, and stylish restaurants. 8787 Scottsdale Rd. N., Scottsdale, 480-458-8064

Kierland Commons, an open-air “lifestyle center,” is adjacent to the Westin Kierland and home to seventy national retailers and some of the city’s better restaurants. A big Barnes & Noble and Crate & Barrel anchor the complex, and office and residential spaces above the stores create an in-town feeling that’s absent in most of spread-out, car-oriented Scottsdale. Scottsdale Rd. at Greenway Pkwy., Scottsdale, 480-348-1577