Eating Philadelphia

Marigold Kitchen
Michael Solomonov was born in Israel, raised in Pittsburgh, and influenced by his Bulgarian grandmother, and has cooked at one of Philadelphia’s top restaurants,  Vetri. That may explain his eclectic menu.

Diners choose between three- or five-course tasting menus. Will it be celery root soup with caraway and escargot, salmon tartare with a poached egg and hit of harissa, or pork loin stuffed with fresh dill and swaddled in grape leaves? A standout on a menu packed with them is sweetbreads wrapped in chicken skin, which is seared to a light crisp; sumac, from the Middle Eastern berry, accents the popular dish.

All of this enjoyed in the refurbished, two-floor former boarding house with modern touches and accents.

The Bottom-Line: Dinner entrées range from $22 to $28, the three-course tasting menu is $35, the five-course $60. 501 S. 45th St., 215-222-3699

Matyson
Chef Matt Spector borrows flavors from around the world. The Mediterranean might be represented by grilled octopus jazzed up with chorizo and anchovy oil, while Asia is alluded to in a miso glaze on a piece of fish. Honest flavors, unfussy arrangements.

“Our specialty is whatever the menu is that day,” says Spector, who runs the place with his wife, Sonjia, who is also the pastry chef. There are exceptions, of course: Diners can always find steak frites and coconut cream pie, which sports a chocolate-nut crust and is finished with freshly whipped cream.

Spector’s extended family helped bring the fifty-six–seat restaurant to life. An aunt created the wall paintings. A cousin dressed the window. Before the spot became a place to eat, it was a butcher shop run by an uncle who employed the young Spector to work the deli counter.

The Bottom-Line: Dinner entrées range from $17 to $28. 37 S. 19th St., 215-564-2925

Melograno
Melograno is Italian for “pomegranate,” an ingredient that finds its way into a few of the dishes here. The sass in the salad dressing comes from the juice of the fruit, which is also featured in the reduction that perks up the pan-roasted stuffed quail.

Pay heed to your server’s suggestions. My guide steered me to see-through squares of fresh ravioli stuffed with  roasted beets and mascarpone cheese. The pasta’s meaty equal was a grill-striped, thyme-laced porterhouse steak on a salad of white beans, garlic, and chopped tomato. Both were lovely.

By 5 p.m. on a Saturday, there’s usually a line forming on the sidewalk. Soon thereafter, all thirty-five seats are likely to be filled, and while the seating is cramped, the room is all clean lines, cream colors, twirling ceiling fans, and broad windows. Eyes are drawn to the tiny open kitchen, where four cooks (including the top toque, Roman-born Gianluca Demontis) dance around each other to assemble your meal.

The Bottom-Line: Dinner entrées range from $16 to $24. 2201 Spruce St., 215-875-8116