Old, New, and Always Blue

Larsmont Cottages and Lutsen Resort have much in common. Both sit on the shore of Lake Superior—the former just north of Duluth, the latter just south of Grand Marais—and celebrate the lake’s allure. Both are full-service resorts in close proximity to high-caliber skiing, hiking, golfing, fishing, and other northern Minnesota pursuits. Both take inspiration from Scandinavian design and life. Yet, a stay at each feels as different as an old friend and a new love: deeply satisfying, but decidedly different experiences. Lutsen feels secluded, relaxed, and removed from urban attractions and distractions. Larsmont, the new kid on the shore, is close to everything and buzzing with energy.

Lutsen Resort is instantly recognizable to generations of skiers for its connection to Lutsen Mountain (it’s a five-minute drive to the ski lifts). In fact, George Nelson, the grandson of the Swedish immigrant who homesteaded the land in 1885, played a key role in developing the slopes, having once been a soldier in the 10th Mountain Division, which moved and fought on skis during World War II. But skiing is just one of many outdoor pursuits available to guests. There’s hiking the Superior Trail, golfing at the twenty-seven–hole Superior National Golf Course, or renting a kayak from Sawtooth Outfitters, but it’s the lake that’s the real attraction. “If you ask people their favorite activity, it’s almost always spending time by the lake,” says Nancy Burns, who owns the lodge with her husband, Scott Harrison. People gravitate to the lake and to the things every generation loves—dangling toes in the water, climbing on the rocks, fishing.

Walk in the front door of the lodge at Lutsen and the massive wood beams and the fireplace, which is surrounded by carved wood and stone, convey a solidness and permanence befitting the oldest resort in the state. While the current structure was rebuilt in the 1950s, there are plenty of salutes to the lodge’s century-old roots, from the pine-log construction to the covered bridges that span the Poplar River, which winds through the property and empties into the lake within view of the lodge. While Lutsen may not be quite as remote as it once was (visitors could once only reach Lutsen by boat), Burns says it still feels like a retreat from city life that is rooted firmly in its native soil.

Larsmont is modeled on a Scandinavian fishing village, complete with a communal wood-fired sauna, pitched roofs, and a deep, vibrant blue and red color motif throughout. It pays homage to the lodge experience, but adds a modern twist for those who like a glass of wine as they sit around the bonfire or relax in a hot tub once back at the cabin. The lodge is the centerpiece—literally. With high ceilings and windows in every direction, the space is infused with light and air. Robert Ryan, president of Odyssey Development, which owns Larsmont, seems genuinely intent on giving the large resort—it’s on forty acres with 1,300 feet of shoreline—a friendly, communal feel, and it has generated a loyal base of returning guests.

Visitors are greeted by a list of camp rules, a nod to the spot’s previous incarnation as a campground. Ryan, an energetic, articulate fifty-something, says his favorite is # 7: Rules are made to be broken. But the other nine are easy enough to follow—they basically require seeking pleasure, maximizing relaxation, and eschewing discomfort. There’s even a rule insisting visitors drop their “city personas” and leave their egos at home. Those looking to balance all the relaxation with some action can easily reach Duluth by car or via the North Shore Scenic Railroad, which stops at Larsmont, or go mountain biking at Brighton Beach or along the Sonju Trail to the Two Harbors Lighthouse. The resort even offers Geocaching, a GPS adventure game that resembles a high-tech treasure hunt.