Old, New, and Always Blue

Larsmont Cottages and Lutsen Resort have much in common. Both sit on the shore of Lake Superior—the former just north of Duluth, the latter just south of Grand Marais—and celebrate the lake’s allure. Both are full-service resorts in close proximity to high-caliber skiing, hiking, golfing, fishing, and other northern Minnesota pursuits. Both take inspiration from Scandinavian design and life. Yet, a stay at each feels as different as an old friend and a new love: deeply satisfying, but decidedly different experiences. Lutsen feels secluded, relaxed, and removed from urban attractions and distractions. Larsmont, the new kid on the shore, is close to everything and buzzing with energy.

Lutsen Resort is instantly recognizable to generations of skiers for its connection to Lutsen Mountain (it’s a five-minute drive to the ski lifts). In fact, George Nelson, the grandson of the Swedish immigrant who homesteaded the land in 1885, played a key role in developing the slopes, having once been a soldier in the 10th Mountain Division, which moved and fought on skis during World War II. But skiing is just one of many outdoor pursuits available to guests. There’s hiking the Superior Trail, golfing at the twenty-seven–hole Superior National Golf Course, or renting a kayak from Sawtooth Outfitters, but it’s the lake that’s the real attraction. “If you ask people their favorite activity, it’s almost always spending time by the lake,” says Nancy Burns, who owns the lodge with her husband, Scott Harrison. People gravitate to the lake and to the things every generation loves—dangling toes in the water, climbing on the rocks, fishing.

Walk in the front door of the lodge at Lutsen and the massive wood beams and the fireplace, which is surrounded by carved wood and stone, convey a solidness and permanence befitting the oldest resort in the state. While the current structure was rebuilt in the 1950s, there are plenty of salutes to the lodge’s century-old roots, from the pine-log construction to the covered bridges that span the Poplar River, which winds through the property and empties into the lake within view of the lodge. While Lutsen may not be quite as remote as it once was (visitors could once only reach Lutsen by boat), Burns says it still feels like a retreat from city life that is rooted firmly in its native soil.

Larsmont is modeled on a Scandinavian fishing village, complete with a communal wood-fired sauna, pitched roofs, and a deep, vibrant blue and red color motif throughout. It pays homage to the lodge experience, but adds a modern twist for those who like a glass of wine as they sit around the bonfire or relax in a hot tub once back at the cabin. The lodge is the centerpiece—literally. With high ceilings and windows in every direction, the space is infused with light and air. Robert Ryan, president of Odyssey Development, which owns Larsmont, seems genuinely intent on giving the large resort—it’s on forty acres with 1,300 feet of shoreline—a friendly, communal feel, and it has generated a loyal base of returning guests.

Visitors are greeted by a list of camp rules, a nod to the spot’s previous incarnation as a campground. Ryan, an energetic, articulate fifty-something, says his favorite is # 7: Rules are made to be broken. But the other nine are easy enough to follow—they basically require seeking pleasure, maximizing relaxation, and eschewing discomfort. There’s even a rule insisting visitors drop their “city personas” and leave their egos at home. Those looking to balance all the relaxation with some action can easily reach Duluth by car or via the North Shore Scenic Railroad, which stops at Larsmont, or go mountain biking at Brighton Beach or along the Sonju Trail to the Two Harbors Lighthouse. The resort even offers Geocaching, a GPS adventure game that resembles a high-tech treasure hunt.

Lutsen’s age, multigenerational appeal, and proximity to the wilderness impart a certain gravitas, to be sure, but time also rounds the edges of the resort, making for a place that manages to feel intimate and comfortable, lived in by countless visitors over the years. It’s easy to imagine visitors drawn back to this place year after year, looking to experience the lake from such a cozy vantage point.

The lodge, along with the other accommodations available at Lutsen—log cabins, luxury condos, townhouses, and, a few miles down the road, sea villas—serve that end admirably. Depending on your budget, you could find yourself in a classic lodge room with hand-painted lampshades, pine furniture, and original art produced by craftsman and artists in the region; or in a log cabin with huge exposed beams and a wood stove; or in a sea villa decked out in gold seagull wall hangings circa 1975 (the sea villas are individually owned and reflect individual tastes). Expect to pay anywhere from $109 a night for a lodge room that accommodates two people to $550 a night for a condo that can sleep six. Almost all accommodations offer lake views or direct access to the shore.

There are fewer lodging options at Larsmont. The cottages radiate from the main lodge toward the lake, creating a villagelike atmosphere. It’s a short walk from any cottage to the lodge or the lake. All of the cottages were built at the same time and reflect a similar aesthetic. But uniformity isn’t all bad when it means that most accommodations include a three-sided fireplace, surround sound, high-end brushed metal appliances, and comfortable beds. “We’re into what people like,” says Ryan—and it shows. Lodging options range from $80 a night for a self-contained cottage guest room (no kitchen, but a nice coffee maker) to just under $500 for a full three-bedroom cottage that can accommodate up to eight people.

In addition to unique accommodations, the resorts distinguish themselves through the dining experiences offered. Larsmont’s restaurant, Ledge Rock Grille, features an impressive handpicked wine list and a menu that straddles the line between gourmet and just plain good, offering homemade chips, pancakes with all the toppings, lobster-stuffed steak, and a trifecta of crème brûlées. Larsmont takes food seriously. “Our chef is a fisherman, so fish is a strength,” says Ryan. And glancing out the restaurant’s windows at the expanse of blue, it’s easy to imagine a direct line from the lake to the butcher block. But the food is only half the equation. The atmosphere speaks volumes about Larsmont’s ambitions in the culinary arena. Airy and modern with an open kitchen and a five-person chef’s table, Ledge Rock fits a gourmet niche first carved out by North Shore neighbor New Scenic Café.

Lutsen’s Lakeside Dining Room (there’s also a more casual pub), like Ledge Rock, is a culinary draw in the surrounding community. The offerings are decidedly more regional in flavor and the atmosphere is more elegant than modern, as you might expect. White tablecloths, expansive lake views, and wood pillars with Scandinavian carvings set the scene for a menu featuring regional favorites such as walleye and Swedish meatballs. Classic.

As it turns out, modern and classic are more complementary than opposite. After all, in a perfect world, you’d get to have both an old friend and a new love. Padding barefoot to the sauna in the brisk morning air at Larsmont or skipping rocks across the surface of the lake at Lutsen—either way, it’s a lovely way to spend a day or two (or ten).