Old, New, and Always Blue

Lutsen’s age, multigenerational appeal, and proximity to the wilderness impart a certain gravitas, to be sure, but time also rounds the edges of the resort, making for a place that manages to feel intimate and comfortable, lived in by countless visitors over the years. It’s easy to imagine visitors drawn back to this place year after year, looking to experience the lake from such a cozy vantage point.

The lodge, along with the other accommodations available at Lutsen—log cabins, luxury condos, townhouses, and, a few miles down the road, sea villas—serve that end admirably. Depending on your budget, you could find yourself in a classic lodge room with hand-painted lampshades, pine furniture, and original art produced by craftsman and artists in the region; or in a log cabin with huge exposed beams and a wood stove; or in a sea villa decked out in gold seagull wall hangings circa 1975 (the sea villas are individually owned and reflect individual tastes). Expect to pay anywhere from $109 a night for a lodge room that accommodates two people to $550 a night for a condo that can sleep six. Almost all accommodations offer lake views or direct access to the shore.

There are fewer lodging options at Larsmont. The cottages radiate from the main lodge toward the lake, creating a villagelike atmosphere. It’s a short walk from any cottage to the lodge or the lake. All of the cottages were built at the same time and reflect a similar aesthetic. But uniformity isn’t all bad when it means that most accommodations include a three-sided fireplace, surround sound, high-end brushed metal appliances, and comfortable beds. “We’re into what people like,” says Ryan—and it shows. Lodging options range from $80 a night for a self-contained cottage guest room (no kitchen, but a nice coffee maker) to just under $500 for a full three-bedroom cottage that can accommodate up to eight people.

In addition to unique accommodations, the resorts distinguish themselves through the dining experiences offered. Larsmont’s restaurant, Ledge Rock Grille, features an impressive handpicked wine list and a menu that straddles the line between gourmet and just plain good, offering homemade chips, pancakes with all the toppings, lobster-stuffed steak, and a trifecta of crème brûlées. Larsmont takes food seriously. “Our chef is a fisherman, so fish is a strength,” says Ryan. And glancing out the restaurant’s windows at the expanse of blue, it’s easy to imagine a direct line from the lake to the butcher block. But the food is only half the equation. The atmosphere speaks volumes about Larsmont’s ambitions in the culinary arena. Airy and modern with an open kitchen and a five-person chef’s table, Ledge Rock fits a gourmet niche first carved out by North Shore neighbor New Scenic Café.

Lutsen’s Lakeside Dining Room (there’s also a more casual pub), like Ledge Rock, is a culinary draw in the surrounding community. The offerings are decidedly more regional in flavor and the atmosphere is more elegant than modern, as you might expect. White tablecloths, expansive lake views, and wood pillars with Scandinavian carvings set the scene for a menu featuring regional favorites such as walleye and Swedish meatballs. Classic.

As it turns out, modern and classic are more complementary than opposite. After all, in a perfect world, you’d get to have both an old friend and a new love. Padding barefoot to the sauna in the brisk morning air at Larsmont or skipping rocks across the surface of the lake at Lutsen—either way, it’s a lovely way to spend a day or two (or ten).