Sleeping with Mr. Wright

The cottage is immensely charming, especially to fans of architecture and design. Low, red sandstone walls transition to tall windows trimmed with Douglas fir. There is little, if any, plaster or wallboard in evidence. The entire space—even the ceiling—is made of stone, glass, and wood.

I visited during one of the last cold snaps of the season and was unable to use the massive stone porch overlooking the lake, or the canoe that comes with the cottage. But inside, with the fireplace roaring, it was cozy and bright. A twelve-foot-high ceiling at the windows slopes down to just under seven feet approaching the bedroom. At the windows, you are all but outdoors; in the bedroom, you are in a cocoon.

Built-ins are filled with games and books, several of which are about Wright and his area works. The compact kitchen features high-end appliances donated by Wisconsin companies such as Kohler and Sub-Zero. But this is no luxury dwelling. Wright’s simple furniture is not comfortable for lounging. The bathroom is tiny, though functional. The double bed is about all that will fit in the small bedroom, and it could use linens that better reflect the home’s design. Much of the upholstery was stained and worn, a byproduct of the heavy use of the cottage. A portable boom box is about the only modern amenity.

Most necessities are provided, including things such as paper towels and dish soap, which we were told to bring along, but were perhaps left by earlier guests. The house is not air conditioned, but it does contain a dishwasher and compact washer and dryer.

There’s a real sense of Wright’s inspiration as you spend time in the Peterson Cottage, enjoying the way the light plays across the space and appreciating the finer details of the design. And you come to understand why so many of his clients filled their homes with furnishings and bric-a-brac Wright disdained. The Peterson Cottage is spare, minimalist, and not always comfortable.

But if you luck into temperate days and can bring the outside in, or are able to hole up during winter storms, the Peterson Cottage becomes not just a unique artifact of perhaps America’s greatest residential architect, but a true manifestation of Wright’s principles of organic architecture and what it really means to build and live in harmony with your surroundings.

How to Stay

The Peterson Cottage is in many ways a victim of its own magnificence. It’s booked months in advance, and prime summer, weekend, or holiday dates can be taken a full year out. The two April nights I reserved in January were the last two consecutive nights open until September. I would have needed to wait until November to find a weekend. If you are passing through and can’t book a stay, the cottage is open for public tours the second Sunday of each month.

The cottage rents for $275 per night, except winter weeknights, which are  $225. Go to sethpeterson.org to learn more about the house and rental availability. The local company that handles guests and maintains the property does not function in a curatorial capacity, though the cottage is filled with materials pertaining to its history and renovation.