Whistler

But Whistler isn’t for everyone. I wouldn’t recommend it as an alternative to the Canadian Rocky Mountain parks. For hikers, Whistler, though surrounded by mountains, is too low and it takes a long time to get out of the forest. Though speedy gondolas rise up Whistler Peak year-round and views from the top are stunning and a little scary, the topography is marred by ski runs and mechanical infrastructure.

Whistler is not for the hippie ski bum. There’s nothing organic about this meticulously planned place.

Finally, Whistler is not for those looking for a bargain. The recent runup in the Canadian dollar, combined with the heavy load of taxes on airfares to Canada, means that Whistler is no longer inexpensive compared to Vail or Park City. The Canadian government has also discontinued its visitor tax rebate program. At current rates, I’d estimate the day-to-day cost of living in Whistler for tourists at about 20 percent more than in the United States. Not bad, but shocking relative to a few years ago.

Here’s a thumbnail guide to my top picks for Whistler visitors, summer and winter.

When to Go
Like most mountain towns, Whistler has two very distinct high seasons and two quasi-dormant low seasons. Ski season gets rolling by late November and continues well into spring. The Pacific Northwest summer is June through September, but much of Whistler’s tourism infrastructure seems to shut down after Labor Day. Good luck finding a rafting trip or guided hike then. Hotel rates plummet from Easter through Memorial Day and from Labor Day through November, but weather is iffy and there are a lot of seasonal closures. You’re much more likely to find sunny and warm spring/fall weather in Colorado than Whistler.

Getting There
Northwest Airlines offers nonstop service to Vancouver year-round. It’s tough to find a seat for under $300, and in summer when you’re competing with Alaska cruisers for seats, it can be tough to find a ticket for under $500. There’s not much need for a car in Whistler, and bus service is available from Vancouver, but most folks rent anyway. Rental surcharges at the Vancouver Airport are usurious. If you’re staying long, you’ll save a lot of money by renting when downtown.
A lot of the air service to Vancouver from the United States arrives late at night and departs at the crack of dawn. A great option in that case is the Fairmont Vancouver Airport (604-207-5200), a lovely luxury hotel built right into the terminal that serves U.S. airline passengers. It really takes the edge off those 11 p.m. arrivals or 7 a.m. departures. (Remember to arrive for your flight two-plus hours early so you can go through U.S. customs in Canada.)

Lodging
Whistler is blessed with a plethora of four-star hotel experiences, from the Westin and Pan Pacific, hard by the ski lifts downtown to the iconic Fairmont chateau in the upper village. Many of the town’s better lodgings offer all-suite layouts or larger-than-average rooms suited to long stays. They’re all worth a look.

Whistler’s top lodging bests its competitors by a wide margin. The Four Seasons Whistler Resort (604-935-3400) at the far end of the upper village is not well-situated, but that’s about the only mark against it (and free car service is available to anyplace in Whistler). It’s the only AAA five-diamond resort in Canada, and its rooms and suites are gorgeous amalgams of contemporary and classic lodge décor. Service is typical Four Seasons gracious, in a town where I found service to be friendly, but often less than professional. The adjacent Four Seasons Whistler Residences offer two- to four-bedroom apartments for long stays and larger parties.