Great Escapes 2008: Madeline Island

Tucked in the northwestern corner of Wisconsin, on Lake Superior, Madeline Island is a mere three miles from Bayfield’s shore. But when I board the ferry each year, that distance feels like quite a bit more. Barreling ahead to the town of LaPointe, outpost of voyageurs, trappers, traders, missionaries, and revelers, this yearly crossing is my straight shot to summer and the sun-drenched, waterlogged days ahead.

There’s plenty to do here–kayak, sail, boat, fish, bike, hike, run, birding, play golf and tennis, cruise to other Apostle Island shores, visit the museum, take an art class, hear a lecture or concert, and, if that’s not enough (or too much), hit one of the four bars. The real reason folks come here, however, is to do nothing: wake to the lap, lap of waves on the dock, halyards clanging on boats offshore; soak in the sunsets and count shooting stars.

Madeline Island, fourteen miles long and three miles wide, is the largest of the twenty-two islands in the Apostle chain (the early explorers counted but twelve). Known to the Ojibway as Moningwunakauning, “home of the golden-breasted woodpecker,” it was named for Chief White Crane’s daughter who took the Christian name, Madeline, when she married Michel Cadotte, a fur trader, at the turn of the eighteenth century.

Madeline’s frontier spirit thrives to this day. The island is a good four-hour drive from the Twin Cities, accessible only by ferry, boat, or plane. Don’t expect resort-type services or amenities here. The island’s two-street town of LaPointe is a pastiche of old fort charm and clapboard buildings (nineteenth-century), some restored, others quite worn. The Chamber of Commerce and Madeline Island Ferry Line is a great source of information, maps, and brochures, but then you’re on your own. Those who know her well are possessive of Madeline’s charms. My twenty-year-old son’s advice for this piece was “just don’t make it sound too good, plenty of people come already.”

Madeline’s population swings from about 250 permanent residents to 3,000 summer folk, but rarely does the place feel crowded. There’s always plenty of room on the beach for playing ball and building castles in the sand. The ferry runs regularly, and if one is full with cars and passengers, there will soon be another.

Madeline is an outpost of untouched beauty. Watch an eagle turn on the radius of a wing, kayak through sea caves, hike the cliffs, climb a lighthouse tower’s winding stairs, sail the tall waters and then watch a storm roll over the lake—ten-foot waves crashing on shore. Be warned: If you come, Madeline may stake her claim on you.

GETTING THERE It’s about 220 miles from the Twin Cities to Bayfield (about four hours), then a twenty-minute ferry ride. The Madeline Island Ferry shuttles cars, campers, bikes, and pedestrians regularly: No reservations are required; buy your ticket at the dock. Ferries run about every half-hour through the season, with prices around $25 one way for a car, plus $5 per person (no break on roundtrips). There is no public transportation on the island, though you can rent bikes and mopeds in town. 100 Main St., 715-747-2051. Peak season is July and August, though the fall colors can be glorious. The Bayfield Applefest (with attendant celebrations on the island), October 3–5, is a big draw. LEARN MORE The Madeline Island Chamber of Commerce has a comprehensive, easy-to-navigate website with more detailed information about places to stay, things to do, and scheduled activities.

Kayak tours on Madeline Island

ON THE WATER
Any sailor worth his or her salt has high regard for the lake and its violent moods. The most knowledgeable outfitter in the area is Living Adventure, just outside of Red Cliff, en route to Bayfield on Highway 13. It offers a variety of kayak tours through the Apostles with half-day, full-day, and longer excursions to sand caves, shipwrecks, and the outer islands, and customized trips may be arranged. Near LaPointe, Apostle Island Kayaks rents boats by the half-day and longer.

The sailing here is world-class. You’ll see boats from all over the country and some from across the pond docked at the marina. Sailboat charters with a captain or bare boat options can be found in Bayfield and Port Superior as well as on Madeline—plus moonlight cruises, half-day journeys to other shores, or a week cruising the Apostles.

Boat cruises leaving from Bayfield circle the Islands with narrated tours and stops at lighthouses, shipwrecks, beaches, and cranberry bogs, some half-day, some full-day, all worth exploring. It’s a quick, easy way to get the lay of the sea.