In 1846, journalist John St. John wrote, “If you are in pursuit of pleasure, whether lady or gentleman, you can find it in the Lake Superior region, provided you can be pleased with grand scenery, water falls, lakes, and mountains.” More than 160 years later, visitors still succumb to the majesty of the greatest lake, though St. John rightly urges travelers to take responsibility for their own enjoyment of it. The region, fantastically rough around the edges, is what you make it, be it a supercharged outdoor playground, agate collection zone, or fount for spiritual renewal.
None of this matters unless the accommodations are right. Where to stay is as central as what to do and where to eat. For some it’s the most important decision.
We toured the North Shore this winter from Two Harbors to Grand Portage in search of great stays. Our selections performed admirably under stringent “Would I want to curl up here with a stack of magazines and a glass of wine?” and “Would my pickiest friends approve?” standards. That, and they’re all on the water. Simply listening to Superior has a therapeutic value that’s hard to overstate.
Larsmont Cottages
It’s like camp for grown-ups. Equally fun for a raucous family gathering or romantic getaway, Larsmont’s cottages are perched on 1,300 feet of Lake Superior shoreline. The interiors are modern and cozy without succumbing to Northwoods motifs, and amenities are many, including a wood-fired Finnish sauna, massage, a year-round outdoor hot tub, and a very fine restaurant, the Ledge Rock Grille. A few “Camp Rules,” such as “Watch the sunrise,” set a friendly tone. And this spring, all guests can check out the Explore! Program, which includes kayaking, fishing, hiking, biking, chef dinners, lawn games, a pig roast, and countless kids’ programs. 596 Larsmont Way, Two Harbors, 866-687-5634, larsmontcottages.com
Superior Shores
Sure, everyone knows about Superior Shores. Your cousin may have gotten married there, and your husband’s company may have booked it for last year’s conference. But you may not know about Superior Shores’ newer Burlington Bay Lakehomes. They’re roomy, tastefully decorated, and luxed out with a full kitchen, Wi-Fi, and a private deck—quite a departure from the old-school, shopworn lodge feel of the main building. Plus, Burlington Bay’s pristine pool area with an indoor/outdoor whirlpool and sauna speaks straight to the heart of the 9-year-old me who wants nothing more than to challenge worthy rivals to underwater handstand contests. 1521 Superior Shores Dr., Two Harbors, 800-242-1988, superiorshores.com
Castle Haven Cabins
The disheartening truth is that many North Shore mom-and-pop resorts fall short of the charm and quality most travelers expect. The economics of providing good hospitality are against them, and so more generously capitalized operators take the business and run. Well, not here. Castle Haven Cabins was originally homesteaded by a pair of Norwegians named Lind and has been in the family ever since. Today, the owners are young married couple Jamie (Lind) and Clint MacFarlane. Their yellow and black labs and their cute toddler hang around. The 12 cabins are neat, spare, and complete with a kitchen, two bedrooms, shower, fireplace, and small living area. Best of all, it’s nearly across the street from another mom-and-pop success story, the Rustic Inn restaurant. Rustic Inn owners Beth and Jim Sullivan make everything from scratch, and locals will enthusiastically tell you their pie is way better than Betty’s. 3067 Castle Danger Rd. E., Two Harbors, 218-834-4303, castlehaven.net
*Editor’s Tip: Castle Haven’s loyal guests book early. July and August are mostly filled; call now for May, June, or September. Unlike most small resorts, Castle Haven is open year-round.
Cove Point Lodge
Nestled on a 150-acre preserve with plenty of birch and pine, Cove Point Lodge feels secluded from the highway and nearby Beaver Bay. An appealing laid-backness characterizes the main lodge and lakeside cottages, almost like they’re daring you to chillax. The fjord cottages, though not very secluded from each other, stand out for modern design and puffy, comfy beds you want to dive into. One of the larger models, the Split Rock Pines Cottage, features a view of the Apostle Islands and sleeps eight—perfect for a couple couples. Pop the champagne, light a fire, and break out the Jenga! 4614 Hwy. 61, Beaver Bay, 800-598-3221, covepointlodge.com
Surfside on Lake Superior
Surfside, the only destination spa along the North Shore, is the more tranquil arm of nearby Bluefin Bay resort. Its townhomes are decked out in a city-dwelling-meets-spa style with flat-screen TVs, granite, irresistibly cozy robes, and Caribou coffee (shouldn’t they consider Duluth-based Alakef?). But the stunning, expansive views of the lake are decidedly non-urban. Go for the two- or three-bedroom option even if you’re traveling in a twosome. The studio-style master suites are positioned somewhat strangely on ground level, but they do offer easy access to the shoreline. Waves of Superior Spa provides all manner of body- and soul-soothing massage and skin care treatments, including a Superior thermal mud wrap and in-suite bath rituals. Hwy. 61, Tofte, 877-361-7873, surfsideonsuperior.com
Lutsen Resort
Lutsen couldn’t belong anywhere but here. It’s the quintessential Lake Superior resort, as familiar and reliable as an old friend. The main lodge, regularly abuzz with parents chirping at kids in snowsuits or swim trunks, and those parents’ parents chatting or browsing newspapers, features fine dining, a casual pub, pool, sauna, shuffleboard, and par-3 golf. You may wish the Sea Villas and Log Cabins were a little more up-to-date, but they’re well maintained. The Poplar River Condos and Cliff House Townhomes are a better bet. In 2008, Lutsen opened the Waters Meet Spa & Wellness Center, perhaps to keep pace with the area’s now-compulsory massage offerings. 5700 W. Hwy. 61, Lutsen, 800-258-8736, lutsenresort.com
A Room of One’s Own
We have a hunch A Room of One’s Own isn’t for everyone, which is nothing but good news to those for whom it’s intended—namely couples or individuals seeking solace, soul repair, artistic inspiration . . . something. The tiny cabin, though very close to the home of proprietors Marcia Hyatt and Tom Christiansen, is situated on a spectacular piece of property complete with Adirondack chairs perched above the rocky, windswept beach. It’s bright, cheery, and filled with the basics. Hyatt and Christiansen go out of their way to respect the privacy of their guests, though they’re on-hand should you want to engage. Hyatt, a professional life coach, offers mentoring sessions with a discounted room rate. 4658 Cascade Beach Rd., Lutsen, 218-387-9239, room1sown.com
East Bay Suites
If you’re more the town square type than the remote cabin type, East Bay Suites in downtown Grand Marais is for you. Originally the Lakeside Hotel in the early 1900s, then the East Bay Hotel, it was rechristened East Bay Suites after a grand renovation in 2005. Light, airily designed studio, one-, two-, and three-bedroom condos offer balconies overlooking the lake, full kitchens, laundry, and Wi-Fi. It’s within walking distance of Grand Marais treasures Sivertson Gallery and The Crooked Spoon Café. 21 Wisconsin St., Grand Marais, 800-414-2807, eastbaysuites.com
Cascade Vacation Rentals
Sometimes the best home away from home is someone else’s home. Vacation rental houses can be a cost-efficient option for the whole fam, including four-legged members in need of Superior-style relaxation. Outfitters-turned-Cascade-Vacation-Rentals-owners Kate and Steve Surbaugh coordinate 55 privately owned properties along the Shore. Call them, tell them what you need, and they’ll set you up. 800-950-4361, cascadevacationrentals.com
Bearskin Lodge
When you need to test your mettle against the elements, head to Bearskin Lodge, 26 miles up the Gunflint Trail. Its slightly rugged cabins overlook pretty Bearskin Lake and are remote enough for total disconnect. Teach your kid to fish and maybe spot a moose during the action. Foodies have one out from all the burly rusticity: Grand Marais’ Chez Jude serves food in the Bearskin dining room. 124 Bearskin Rd. E., Grand Marais, 800-338-4170, bearskin.com
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