How to Be Lovely

When it comes to wedding fashions, designers aren’t letting the economy minimize the romance in their fall 2009 collections. “Girls are still getting engaged, and brides are still getting married,” says Romona Keveza, who was one of many bridal designers presenting their fall 2009 collections last October in New York. Recession or not, most brides and their families have saved up for their big day for years. They may have budgeted for the dress, but they are looking for classic, soft, and elegant styles—nothing that screams, “We’ve got money.”

Whether it was light and ethereal gowns from Lela Rose, Adele Wechsler, and Vera Wang for the bohemian bride, sweetheart necklines and trumpet skirts at Monique Lhuillier and Judd Waddell for the classic bride, or even lightly embellished rock ‘n’ roll looks from Jenny Packham and Claire Pettibone for the eclectic bride—the return to good, clean, style also meant marketable dresses that are a buyer’s dream.

Designers wove a thread of simplicity and elegance throughout the shows, but the collections still embraced the new and inspiring. The one-shoulder gown emerged as the neckline of choice at shows by Romona Keveza, Vineyard Collection, and Melissa Sweet. Pockets cropped up as hidden surprises in gowns by Priscilla of Boston, color infused the gowns by Vera Wang, and Canadian-based designer Adele Wechsler presented her second collection of eco-couture wedding gowns. “I wanted to give a heart and soul to my collection,” Wechsler explained at a recent trunk show at Macy’s in Minneapolis. “Brides are looking to have environmentally conscious weddings, and a dress is a big part of that.”

Crumb catchers, cummerbund detailing, Grecian draping, and belts also added flourish to otherwise simple gowns. The strapless neckline still reigns, but designers also showed off a lot of V-neck, halter neck, portrait necklines, and one-shoulder options. They kept appliqués and beading to a minimum, but included accents in the bustline, bustle, or train—lending a sense of individuality and character that brides crave.

Bridal style doesn’t stop at the dress. Designers also focused on hair, jewelry, makeup, and flowers and how they complement the elegance of the season. Most shows modeled hair in a classic low chignon, covered by a long, chapel-length veil or adorned with jeweled pins or a feathered headband. Makeup is trending toward the clean, fresh, and young with the look of just-pinched cheeks and doe eyes. The tastemakers kept jewelry minimal and flowers presented in simple arrangements of muted colors. It looks like fall is emerging as the season where true elegance trumps trend, but for the bride, isn’t that the golden rule?