Formalwear Basics

Nothing transforms a man more quickly and dramatically than properly placed formalwear. How to get started finding the perfect look? When choosing a look for the groom and his leading men two rules apply: Formalwear accessories shouldn't clash with the colors or styles the couple has selected, and the tuxedo shouldn't upstage the bridal gown. We asked two local experts for more advice on how to make sure your groom looks 100 percent G.Q.

The Right Fit
Before you even think about a specific style, focus on the importance of the right fit. "Tuxedo specialists are trained to provide the very best fit under all circumstances," says Jim Hardin of Knights Formalwear. This should include comfort in the shoulders with no "pulling" in the back of the garment, as well as adequate room in the body of the coat to allow for comfortable movement while the coat is buttoned.

The coat sleeve length should settle at about the wrist bone, allowing the shirt cuff to extend slightly past the jacket sleeve, highlighting the cufflinks and a glimpse of the shirt cuff itself. Trousers should be worn at exactly the waistline.

What's In for 2008
America's designers continue to explore unique and luxurious fabrications, according to Mark Morrow, president of Savvi Formalwear. "In men's tailored clothing, we continue to see the resurgence of brown and other earth tones," he says. "The same holds true for men's formalwear. This trend is further supported by the variety of wedding gowns produced in natural fibers and bridesmaid's gowns in champagne, latte, mocha, and warm tones of coral, persimmon, and spice."
He adds that the most hip look for 2008 is a retro style inspired by recent fashion influences from Europe. The jacket is slightly shorter in body length, is trimmed in black satin along the lapel, and is worn with fashion-forward, non-pleated trousers.
But our experts agree that anything too trendy should be thoughtfully considered. "Remember the powder-blue tuxedo your grandfather wore for his wedding?" Hardin says. "There is a reason a tuxedo has traditionally been black. It expresses a timeless look one can always be satisfied with."

Comfort Is Key
Grooms often dread getting gussied up for their wedding day because they fear their tuxedo will be itchy, tight, and hot, and their shoes will have them begging for mercy before they've even said, "I do." But truly comfortable tuxedos are today's new norm, according to our experts. "The industry has responded well to requests for comfort in formalwear," Hardin says. "Lightweight wools are beginning to replace worsted wool for the customer who demands a lighter wool that will Ôbreathe.' Arm holes in the coats are being opened a bit more for comfort, elastic tabs affixed on the short collar button have been introduced for a more roomy fit in the neck, and shoes are being made with an eye for a wider fit than in years past."